We have one of the most basic breakfast buffets ever: water, coffee, toast and egg. But at least the children are happy, and we are also happy, because at least we get something to eat. And also in general, because of all the time we spent together. Cleo who learns navigating (being extremely strict with the maximum driving limit) and is so happy with simple things as a bath in the hotel room, Zeno who always wants to run around pointing at doves and buses. It sounds cheesy, but we do feel grateful every day for this great adventure that seems endless (although we’re already over half way).
Although we wake up in Daejeon, we don’t have anything planned here. All the hotels were booked because it’s a long weekend in South Korea. So Tim did not go for a morning walk and we have to drive an hour to our actual place for the day: Gongju, where we start with visiting the fort.
It’s really big (20 hectares) and archaeological excavations are still being carried out. We stroll around over the castle walls which provide a nice view over Gongju. We also try to find a hoopoe bird that we hear from far away, but we only manage to locate the tree where it hides. We do see a squirrel instead.
Next is the Gongju National Museum, about the local cultural treasures and the history of the Baekje Kingdom as Gongju was the capital before Buyeo where we were yesterday. The most impressive finds are the artefacts from the Tomb of King Muryeong and his wife, who ruled Baekje from 501 to 523. It was found in 1971 and being untouched by grave robbers and thieves for over 1500 years. It is the only grave which had a name of the ruler inside, together with his deeds so it provided a huge impulse to the study of this time period in Korea.
Before we visit the tombs themselves, Cleo spots the children museum. As Zeno is also awake after his nap, we take some time to do all the activities on offer.
Then we finally visit the tombs. The museum is small and not interesting. Even Cleo complains that it was too small. An extraordinary complaint from a 3 years old. In the site of the tombs, however, they have another museum where they provide more information and where they rebuilt the Muryeong tomb, and some other tombs. The museum also places the tombs in a wider Asian context and how Chinese, Korean and Japanese tombs and graves influenced each other. The tombs themselves, next to the museum, are closed and we can only see them from the outside.
Then, it’s finally time to make a visit to the palaeolithic festival that is advertised all over Gongju. It’s extremely busy at the river bank. Hungry we walk from the furthest parking spot in the heath (it’s 26 degrees, but in the burning sun it feels like 35) to the food truck festival that was advertised on the folder.
It’s a bit disappointing with two stands that sell kimchi pancakes and hot-dogs. But we enjoy the food nevertheless. We don’t find much palaeolithic either, just a lot of bicycles…? And ice cream, so at least the children are happy.
When we set course to the palaeolithic museum, we understand that there must be two festivals in town, as also here there are many tents, podiums, people and also children. And cars. Tim let us out of the car and parks the car at the final empty spot at 15 minutes walk in the burning sun. In the meantime, Olga, Cleo and Zeno try to stay in the shade and explore the festival (again). Here, there are many activities that are framed palaeolithic, like barbecuing, making hand tools, playing archaeologists and painting. Cleo chooses the latter and is completely focused on painting a fan for the next hour. Zeno also enjoys himself but has less concentration and also throws with the brushes and paint. Olga gets many wipes from the organisers to keep Zeno and his surroundings clean. In the meantime, Tim visits the museum.
As it’s super busy at the festival and we’re outside in the burning sun already the whole day, we decide to return to Daejeon at 15.00. The 45 km is still an 1,5H drive anyway as the traffic in Daejeon is as terrible as yesterday. In the hotel, we enjoy a bath and some video calls with family before heading out for a Korean dinner for a change. Opposite of the restaurant is a playground, quite unique in Korea as we’ve seen only some closed ones so far. But this one is open and Cleo and Zeno enjoy themselves for another hour, until the day is really over.
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