We conclude our series in Tokyo with two iconic Japanese cultural forces: Studio Ghibli and contemporary artist Yayoi Kusama. If you haven’t watched any of the movies of Studio Ghibli you should change that immediately. Both the movies of Studio Ghibli and the art of Yayoi Kusama explore the magical and surreal so it’s interesting to explore both museums and the same day even though they are quite different there are overlying themes to discover.
Visit Ghibli museum
A visit to the Ghibli museum has to be planned well in advance. There are no tickets available at the door since the museum works with advance reservations only. You can either buy them via the JTB group 3 months in advance or via Lawson on the 10th of the preceding month. Set your alarm clock and have ideally have a somewhat flexible scheduele to get tickets.
Stained-glass Totoro windows
The museum itself is a wonderful magial place for both adults and children alike. All your Ghibli favourites are there from Totoro to the Iron Giant, it’s a fun place to explore and to get an isight into the movie making process.
Yayoi Kusuma museum
The works of Yayoi Kusama can be seen in museums all over the world and in Japan even more. From the famous pumpkins on Naoshima to the modern art museum in her birthtown of Matsumoto. Tokyo was lacking a museum with her art, this changed in 2017 when a museum dedicated to her art opened.
As with the Ghibli museum, the Yayoi Kusuma museum doesn’t sell tickets at the door. The must be ordered in advance via their website.
Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building
View from to Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building with Mount Fuji.
End the day with a view from the observation deck in the towers of the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building. The observation deck on the 45th floor (202m) is freely accessible for everyone and gives you a great impression of the city. On clear days you can also see Mount Fuji in the distance.
Japan is famous for many things, among which it’s highly stylized gardens. Traditionally there are three gardens seen as the best. These are Kenroku-en in Kanazawa, Koraku-en in Okayama and Kairaku-en in Mito. The first two are too far away from Tokyo for a day trip, but the Kairaku-en in Mito is just one-and-a-half hours away by train, so if you don’t plan on visiting the other gardens make sure to visit this one.
Trip to Mito
Kairaku-en
Since Kairaku-en lies just one-and-a-half hours from Tokyo, it’s a perfect morning trip. You can either go to Kairaku-en station (only open during the plum blossom season) and walk to the garden or go to Mito station and take the bus. There are clear signs as you leave the station for the busses which bus will stop at the garden.
The garden is most famous for its plum blossoms, so a visit at the end of the winter (February or March) will treat you to a flowerly delight. There is also a large bamboo forest to explore and a host of different trees and plants.
Bamboo forrest
Kobuntei house
Kobuntei house now serves as a tea house and hosts poetry events. It’s the perfect place to relax and take in some of the stunning views.
Sakurayama
During the Sakura season you should also visit Sakurayama which is part of the greater park area and which is full of cherry blossom trees.
Once you’re done in Mito take the train back to Tokyo for some culture and history.
Back in Tokyo
Edo Tokyo museum
The Edo Tokyo museum is housed in one of the most bizarre and huge modern buildings ever build. The museum tells the story of Tokyo from it’s origins as a small trading and fishing village to the capital of Japan and one of the largest cities in the world. The museum is full with replica buildings from the different ages, providing you the opportunity to travel through time back to the Shogunate, war time Tokyo and the post-war period.
Sumida Hokusai museum
Just a couple of streets behind the Edo Tokyo museum lies the Sumida Hokusai museum, housed in a stunning modern building in the shape of a huge letter M. Here you can watch some of the most famous and iconic works of Hokusai such as his Great wave off Kanagawa. If you love his work, try to also visit his museum in Obuse.
Tokyo Skytree
Tokyo Skytree
Either take the subway directly to Tokyo Skytree and marvel at the huge building from below and go up to get some great views over Tokyo if you like. Another approach is to take the bus to the Kitajukken river and then take some pictures of the Skytree from a far. Afterwards you can walk towards the Skytree. Not sure if going up is worth the price, the free view from the Tokyo metropolitan building is as good or better. And if you want an alternative to the metropolitan building, we prefer the Tokyo city view in the Mori art building as it provides unhindered open-air views of Tokyo.
Previous articles about Tokyo and its surroundings
Tokyo is one of the largest cities in the world and with its ever-sprawling suburbs it feels like a city with no end. So, it can be hard to decide where to start and how to spend your limited time there. We’ll try to help you on your way with our favourite places, great ideas for day trips, some tips and our Tokyo itinerary for a week.
Our favourite places in Tokyo
There are so many great places that it’s hard to come up with a top 5. But here are our favourite places in alphabetical order:
There are many greats sights within 1 or 2 hours of Tokyo. All places can be reached by taking a train from Tokyo station.
Daibatsu in Kamakura
Kamakura
It’s easy to come up with our favourite day trip from Tokyo, that has to be a visit to the stunning temples and shrines of Kamakura.
Nikko
Not that far behind Kamakura comes Nikko. It lies in a beautiful pine forest and the shrine to Tokugawa Ieyasu is stunning. If you can’t make it to Nikko, visit the Tokugawa shrine in Ueno in Tokyo.
Mito
Traditionally listed as one of the top 3 gardens in Japan, we think it’s the least of the three but we visited the garden during the winter with no snow.
Hakone
Go to Hakone for some better views of Mount Fuji and relax and take a bath in the many onsen there.
Tips
Where to stay in Tokyo
Since Tokyo is gigantic travelling from one place to another can take a lot of time. Therefor it’s best to stay close to a subway station and prefereably to a JR Circle line station. (circular Yamanote line) Especially if you have a JR railpass.
Escape the city for a day with the perfect day trip to beautiful Kamakura. In this ancient Japanese capital you’ll find plenty of temples, shrines and a gigantic Buddha in a tranquil environment.
Unwind again by making a day trip to peaceful Nikko. This place is most famous for the shrines of Ieyasu and Iemitsu Tokugawa. But there are many more beautiful religious shrines and temples here. Read our article about Nikko for more information.
Another full day in Tokyo lies ahead. We will explore the darker side of Japanese history and look at some modern and contemporary art. Go on a shopping bonanza and visit the heart of Tokyo. Read the complete article here.
For a change of scenery we’ll go to Mito and one of the Three Great Gardens of Japan, Kairaku-en. In the afternoon we’ll visit the interesting Edo Tokyo museum to get an understanding of the history and development of Tokyo. Read our full guide here.
End your visit of Tokyo with two magical museums. But since both museums are only accessible with advance tickets reserve tickets well in advance and be flexible to adjust your schedule.
Trier is the oldest city in Germany, founded somewhere around 400 BCE. It became a prominent Roman border town when the Romans conquered the town and established a roman colony here. It’s heighday came after the Imperial reforms of Diocletian when the city became a residence of the Western Roman emperor. The town housed as much as 100,000 people by then, almost as much as today.
It’s the Roman remains that attract most visitors to Trier. It is by far the best Northern European town to view Roman remains. So most of our listed highlights are connected to the Romans in one way or another.
Porta Nigra
Porta Nigra
The most famous and iconic of all the Roman remains in Trier is the Porta Nigra. This large Roman gate was part of the huge wall around the city and one of the four main entry gates of the city. It was probably built after the Frankish incursion of 275 and likely by Constantine in the early 4th century as the building was left unfinished as were his baths.
A Greek monk lived in the ruins of the Porta Nigra in the 11th century. After his death the gate was transformed into a church in his honor. It was Napoleon who ordered this church to be torn down when he conquered the city and to restore the gate back to its original Roman state.
Dom St. Peter zu Trier
Trier Cathedral is the oldest church of Germany and probably built upon the site of an earlier Roman church. The cathedral was probably started by Constantine, but much of his building was destroyed by the Franks in the 5th century, it was rebuild several times since then but its Roman and Romanesque origins are still visible as are large parts of the original Roman brick walls.
Konstantinbasilika (Aula Palatina)
Konstantinbasilika
The Konstantinbasilika or Aula Palatina was commisioned by the Roman Emperor Constantine the Great around 310 CE. The original building was sadly destroyed by an Allied air raid during the second World War. But it has since been rebuild and is one of the best places to give you an idea of what a late Roman basilica would have looked like. Pay special attention to the windows in the apse, they give the optical illusion that the apse is much bigger than it really is. This sophisticated effect is created by lowering the line of the apse windows and making them smaller than the ones in the nave. It’s a good example of the fact that during this period the quality of the architecture of the Roman provinces would surpass that of Rome itself.
Rheinisches Landesmuseum
The Rheinisches Landesmuseum is an archeology museum displaying many of the stunning Roman finds from the city. They have huge mosaics, statues, tombs and much more. But the complete collection spans a wider timeframe. So, there are also artifacts from the prehistory until the late middle ages on display.
Roman Amphitheater
Amphitheater
The Roman amphitheater in Trier was erected during the 2nd century. It could house some 20,000 spectators for gladiator shows and other events. Although the seating is mostly covered by grass now, you can still get a good idea of the whole place. The Arena floor has been rebuild and you can enter the remains of the underground where the gladiators and animals would have been kept.
Kaiserthermen
The Kaiserthermen or the Imperial baths were also commissioned by Constantine in the 4th century. The baths were only later finished as Constantine had to leave to the East where he would found his new capital Constaninople. Valentinian would finish them but on a smaller scale than originally intended. The design is fairly similar to the earlier St Barabara Baths which can be found 1 km to the east.
Roman Bridge
Roman bridge
Just beyond the St Barbara Baths lies the ancient Roman bridge over the river Moselle. This is the oldest standing bridge of Germany. The remaining Roman parts are the pillars of the bridge, these are still the original ones from the second century. The upper part has been restored several times.
Liebfrauenkirche
The only building without Roman links on our list is the Liebfrauenkirche. Although the church is built on top of an earlier Roman double church and some of the Roman foundations are used for the huge Gothic pillars of this building. This early 13th century church is one of the earliest Gothic churches in Germany.
Renting a car has a lot of advantages: It
gives total freedom and flexibility, you can get off the beaten track,
exploring a country’s rural areas and finding hidden gems. We just like to make
our own itinerary, independent of tour organisations, train schedules and
buses. Just the two of us, in a car, and some pins on a map to guide us through
the country. After dozens of car rentals all over the world, we have some tips
to share.
Top-up your credit card before departure
Our best and number one tip is to make sure
you can pay the deposit for your rental car. Sometimes it can be €1,500/$1,500
or more.
So if your card has a spending limit of a
€1.000, you can temporarily increase the limit by either asking for a higher
limit or just top off the card with the amount needed.
When you’re unable to pay for the deposit,
you either can’t get the car, ruining your plans, or you’ll have to buy off the
deposit by taking all the insurances at a premium.
This can easily double your expected
expenses. So be 100% sure there is enough money on your credit card to pay for
the deposit.
Do you plan to cross borders?
Check beforehand if it is possible to cross
borders with your rental car if you’re planning to do so. Also, check if there
are any extra costs to cross country borders. These costs can be very high,
depending on the rental company. So it’s smart to check this before booking
your car because otherwise your cheap car deal can become much more expensive
after all.
Check if there is a limited mileage
Another thing to check is if the car comes
with limited mileage. If so, calculate how much you want to drive and check if
this is within the maximum mileage. If not, think if it’s cheaper to buy
unlimited mileage, just to pay for the extra miles or rent at another company. Take
into account that you always drive a bit more than your itinerary might tell
you, as you might want to be able to take some detours and be flexible, that
was the whole reason to get a car in the first place.
When to arrange an international drivers’ license
(International Driving Permit)
Touring Russia
The simplest way to check is if the country
you’re visiting has the same script. For example, Russia uses a Cyrillian
script where many European and American countries use the Roman script. Another
condition can be the language, is the drivers’ licence in English or does it
has an English translation, then it can be used in most countries with a Roman script.
If these things are not the case or you’re not sure check with your national
automobile association. In most countries, international driving permits are
issued by automobile associations, so get it there.
Add a second driver?
It can be costly to add a second driver
when renting a car. So when we go on a weekend trip, we usually do not add a
second driver. This saves some money that we can spend on an extra museum visit
or diner. When we go on longer trips and have to drive a lot, we always add an extra
driver to share the burden. If you want to do this, check the costs between
different companies as it can add up for longer trips.
Rent a small car
We always rent the smallest and usually the
cheapest car that’s on offer. We even drove off-road in Nordic Iceland in a
tiny city car. It’s just cheaper petrol-wise, easy to park, less chance for
scratches, and better for the environment. So get the smallest car that suits
your needs.
Driving around Iceland
When to take the extra insurance
Did you ever check if your credit card offers
insurance for car rental? Some do! So in that case, don’t take out double insurance
by taking the extra insurance of the rental car organization. Moreover, if
you’re renting a car in Europe, the basic insurance is always included (by
law), so it’s on average just cheaper not to take any other ‘extra’ insurance.
When travelling to non-EU countries, it can make sense to take the basic
insurance. The costs of car accidents can easily sum-up to a LOT of money. To
decide on this, check the costs of the insurance itself, the driving culture of
the country and the general status of the cars to get an indication of the
driving culture. Also, take into account the ‘stress’ it might give you driving
without insecure.
Use a price comparison website
There are several price comparison
websites. Use different ones to find the best deals available. We usually use
carrentals.com or kayak.com.
Use maps.me
We always use Maps.me as navigation. The
big plus is that you can pin the sites you want to visit, you can download offline
maps and you can use it if you don’t have GPS, internet, reception and are in
the middle of nowhere. You just need a phone with a battery. Moreover, it is
quite detailed, even small hiking trails are shown on the maps. Another plus is
that it is open-source software.
Rent an automatic car when driving on the other side of
the road
We always rent an automatic car when
travelling to a country where they drive on the left side. It just saves some
stress not to shift gears every time you need to start driving, take a turn or navigate
a round-about. It’s a nice luxury that
we really enjoy, and it’s often not even that more expensive.
Our small rental car at beautiful Glen Coe
Take pictures before and after renting the car
Take pictures of the car before you start
driving, to make sure that you have your own proof of the state of the car at the
pick-up. Most rental organisations provide an illustration of the damage that
can be on the car, but it’s always nice to have proof of your own as well, to
be independent and safe. We usually take 8 pictures, one from every side and
every corner. However, after travelling in Botswana we learned that it can also
be wise to take a picture of the roof, as we got a big bill for a small dent on
the roof that we honestly did not know about. Also take pictures when returning
your car, to avoid surprises afterwards. This is something you should
especially do if you return the car after office hours.
Car with some dents in Jordan
Clean the inside of your car
Clean the inside of your car before returning it. Besides being the civil thing to do, throwing away your garbage and ensure your car doesn’t look like a garbage dump can also help you avoid a hefty cleaning bill.
Prepare for different audio systems
We like to play music while on the road. Most
modern cars come with a Bluetooth audio system so you can easily pair your
phone to listen to music. Be sure to limit the access to your phone to the
music and delete everything when returning the car. If you have a simpler car,
bring an aux-cable so you can play music from your phone or mp3 player that
way. And before you go, make a nice playlist, the preparation of a journey is
half the fun.
The city of Pavia lies beside the Ticino river and in the shadow
of Milan, which is just a half-hour away. It was an important place under the
Roman Empire. When the Longobards invaded Italy they made Pavia their capital. Unfortunately,
not much remains from this time as the Hungarians burned Pavia down in 924. It
remained the capital of the Italian Kingdom until the 12th century.
Nowadays it’s a peaceful city with its most famous sight situated outside the
city, the Certosa di Pavia. Below, you can find the most impressive historic
sights listed. Just follow our itinerary to get most out of your visit to Pavia!
Certosa di Pavia
The Certosa di Pavia is an extravagant late 14th-century
monastery. The building was commissioned by the powerful Visconti family from
Milan. The highlight is the church with beautiful tombs. The rest of the
monastery can only be visited by guided tour. Check out the website for opening
times, it’s closed on Mondays and for midday mass every day.
Piazza della Vittoria
Start your walk through the town at the Piazza della Vittoria.
This cobblestoned square has a lot of bars and restaurants to get a drink and a
bite to eat. On the southern end of the square stands the Broletto, the
medieval town hall from the 11th century.
Piazza della Vittoria
Duomo di Pavia
South of the Broletto can you find the Duomo
di Pavia, the cathedral of Pavia. Construction started at the end of the 15th
century and the cathedral supplanted two earlier churches located there. Construction
was not finished until the 1930’s and has a history of collapses. First, the
dome collapsed in 1885 just after it was finished. Second, next door Civic
Tower collapsed and killed four people in 1989. The remains of the tower can
still be seen today.
Dome of Duomo di Pavia
San Teodoro
If you head southwest towards the river you walk
along the romanesque San Teodoro church. This small red-bricked building has
some nice frescos inside.
Porta Calcinara
As you reach the river you’ll see one of the
remaining city gates, the Porta Calcinara.
This 12th-century gate is one of the few reminders of the medieval
city walls.
Ponte Coperto
Go down to the banks of the river for a nice view of the medieval
covered bridge, the Ponte Coperto. This bridge is a 20th-century
reconstruction of the medieval bridge as the bridge was heavily damaged by
Allied bombardments during the second world war. The medieval bridge was built
in 1354 to replace the earlier Roman bridge which was also situated at this
crossing point.
Ponte Coperto
Basilica di San Michele Maggiore
Head back northeast into the city, the view the beautiful and
important 11th-century Basilica di San Michele Maggiore. It’s a fine
example of a Lombard style church and it is historically important too. It was
here that the Holy Roman Emperor Frederick Barbarossa (Redbeard) was crowned
King of Italy in 1155, and so were many other Italian kings.
Medieval Towers
Continue northwards towards Piazza
Leonardo Da Vinci. Here you’ll find a couple of interesting buildings. Most
photogenic are the three medieval towers standing in the corner of the square.
They give you some idea why Pavia was once called the city of hundred towers,
as the city used to be covered with towers like this. The towers are some 40-50
meters high and date from the 12th century.
Another
interesting site is the remains of the Chiesa di Sant’Eusebio. All that
remains is the 7th-century crypt but this is an early example of
Lombard Christian architecture.
On the northern
end of the square lies the University of Pavia, one of the older
universities in the world as it was founded in 1361.
Castell Visconteo
Castell Visconteo
The castle lies in the northern part of town and houses the city
museums of Pavia (Musei Civici). The castle dates from the end of the 14th
century and served as a palace for the dukes of the Visconti and later the
Sforza families.
How to spend two days in Milan? There is much more to see and do in Milan than fashion shopping. Milan is an ancient city with beautiful churches, squares, museums and private houses. If you’re here for a weekend trip, we’ll have the best itinerary for you, filled with the finest art, ancient culture and impressive history. But you can always pick and choose if you have less time or add some other stuff you would like to visit such as the San Siro football stadium.
Day 1 in Milan
Castello Sforzo
Cortile delle Armi (Ducal Court)
On the northwestern edge of the city center
lies the Castello Sforzo from the 15th century. It was built by the Duke
of Milan Fransesco Sforza on the site of the destroyed castle of the city’s
previous rulers, the Visconti family. The castle is decorated wih several
frescos by Leonardo da Vinci. The castle houses 9 different civic museums
ranging from prehistoric archeology to wooden sculptures and from paintings to
tapestries.
San Maurizo al Monastero
Walk from the castle into the old part of
Milan and after a couple of minute you’ll reach the Chiesa di San Maurizio al Monastero
Maggiore. This beautifully painted church used to be attached to the next door
benedict monastery. The church is a 16th century baroque little gem.
Museo Archeologico
Maximian Roman wall
The cities archaeology museum is housed in the
former monastery which was built on top of and reused many building materials
of the nearby Roman ruins. So it’s an excellent place to explain the different
time periods and how they interlink. The main focus is on the Etruscan and
Roman period, the museum has some nice finds on display. You can also visit an
old polygonal tower which belonged to the Maximian Roman walls.
Leonardo da Vinci
The highlight of many people’s visit to Milan
is Leonardo’s huge fresco painting of the Last Supper. If you also want to see
it make sure to reserve tickets in advance. Tickets are sold out weeks in
advance so plan carefully. If you manage to get tickets, be sure to be on time
for your timeslot of 15 minutes and enjoy. It’s a beautiful work of art and you
can admire it in relative quietness with just 30 other people at the time.
Last Supper by da Vinci
Santa Maria delle Grazie
The last supper is located in the refectory of
the Santa Maria delle Grazie but you’ll need separate tickets for both. The
church served as a burial site for the Sforza family. The church was heavily
damaged by Allied bombing in World War II, but the wall with Da Vinci’s fresco
was protected by sandbags and survived without any major damage.
Basilica Sant Ambrosio
To the southeast lies the Basilica di
Sant’Ambrogio, one of the oldest churches in Milan. Built by St. Ambrose in
379, although almost everything you see today dates from the 12th
century. The basilica is surrounded by a monastery which dates from the 8th
century. The monastery housed two different orders, that division is still
visible today by the two different towers, one from the 9th century
and the other from the 12th century. This church was another victim of
the allied bombing raid of 1943 and has been heavily restored. The crypt houses
the tomb of the Holy Roman Emperor Louis II.
Duomo di Milano
The most famous church of Milan is its duomo
or cathedral. It is the largest church in Italy and took six centuries to
complete. Work started in 1386 and was not completed until 1965. This results
in a very eclectic style of the building, originally a French-style gothic
building, but now a mix of that with all the later styles and whims of the
rulers and builders during the ages. The roof of the cathedral provides
marvelous views over the city but it can be busy, so it’s not ideal for those
with fear of heights.
Duomo
Pinacotea Ambrosiana
Housed in the Biblioteca Ambrosiana, the
pinacotea has a good collection of renaissance art with some masterpieces by Da
Vinci, Caravaggio and Rafael. The library houses several manuscripts by Da
Vinci.
Santa Maria presso San Satiro
Santa Maria presso San Satiro is a nice little
church built at the end of the 15th century. The main draw is the
false apse at the backend of the church. Due to a limited amount of space, the
apse is painted by Bramante with a perspective
illusion choir. One of the first examples of trompe l’oeil in the history of
art.
Basillica di Lorenzo Maggio
The Basillica di Lorenzo Maggio is one of the
oldest churches in Milan and its origin dates back to Roman times. The building
of the basilica started somewhere at the end of the 4th century. In
1071 the basilica was ravaged by fire which destroyed most of the original
interior decorations and made new restorations necessary. In 1573 the dome of
the basilica collapsed, which was subsequentially rebuild. It’s a great example
of a Roman basilica church although heavily reconstructed throughout the ages.
It still houses an original 4th century mosaic of Christ the
Lawgiver.
Basillica di Lorenzo Maggio by night
Day 2 in Milan
Pinacoteca di Brera
Start your day early with a visit to the
Pinacoteca di Brera which is housed in the Palazzo Brera. The pinacoteca is the
best gallery to view Italian paintings in Milan. In its collection are works by
the likes of Raphael, Belinni, Tintoretto, Caravagio and Titian.
Pinacoteca di Brera
Villa Reale / Galleria d’Arte Moderna
The Villa Reale houses the Galleria d’Arte
Moderna. This relatively small museum has a collection of 18th until
20th century works. Principal works in the collection include works
by artists like Van Gogh, Picasso and Gauguin.
Also visit the opposite Padiglione d’Arte Contemporanea
if you like contemporary art.
Villa Necchi
Villa Necchi is a beautiful villa from the
1930’s. Some of the rooms are still decorated with furniture from this era. The
villa and its surrounding garden form a quiet repose from the busy city. The
villa is part of the 4 Case Museo di Milano network and you can buy one
entrance ticket for all four houses. Depending on the amount you want to visit
this can be a good deal, but beware that Case Boschi de Stefano is free to
enter anyway.
Case Boschi de Stefano
Case Boschi de Stefano is a historical
residence once inhabited by the couple Antonio Boschi and Marieda Di Stefano. They
were huge art collectors and their collection includes more than 2,000 works of
art. Over 300 of those works are on display in this house that is packed with
paintings. No wall is free of art, maybe not the best way to display this many
works of art but it’s a great collection of mainly 20th century
Italian art which you wouldn’t see elsewhere. And since the museum is free,
there is no reason to skip this gem.
Basilica San Nazaro in Brolo
Basilica San Nazaro in Brolo is another church
founded by St. Ambrose. This church was built at the end of the 4th
century but not much remains of the original building. The old façade is
obstructed by the Trivulzio Mausoleum from 1512.
Navigile Grande
The Navigile Grande is the biggest of the canals dug in Milan. Its origin dates back to the time of Frederick Barbarossa and was one of the biggest engineering projects during the Middle Ages in Italy. Nowadays it’s a good place to go for a walk, have a drink and have dinner.
Day trips from Milan
There are a lot of beautiful places around Milan. We can recommend going to Turin to be closer to the mountains, get some royal history, a superb Egyptian museum and several other great museums.
Another good day trip is to Pavia, this city lies just a half hour south of Milan and is very compact and has kept much of its medieval atmosphere. Don’t forget to stop at Certosa de Pavia, this monastery is beautiful..
Iceland is one of our favourite countries for traveling, its spectacular scenery will stay with you for the rest of your life. Are you planning to go to Iceland? Read our tips for getting the most out of your trip
1. Rent a car
Iceland is a perfect country for a road trip, as it gives you the freedom to explore the country at your own pace. Some people bring their own car, which is already possible from €435, but there are many rental companies next to Reykjavik airport. When you plan to leave the ring road – Iceland’s main road that brings you around the whole island – it might be wise to hire a four-wheel-drive, as the road might be unpaved. We managed to make it in an Open Corsa as well. However, take a look at the weather forecasts, as it can be too windy or cold for such a car.
Stay 6 days, or at least 4
Despite what many other travel blogs say, it is possible to do the Iceland round trip in four days. And yes, this includes time for sightseeing, hiking, whale watching and puffin spotting. You can find our itinerary in this article. However, it would be ideal to have a little extra time for some more exploring off the beaten track. We would say it is ideal to stay in Iceland for six days. Of course, the longer the better, as it is an amazing country, but in six days you can get a really good impression of this amazing country and its spectacular nature.
Read the information signs
We always read the information signs along the roads, trails or sites we pass. But in Iceland we really recommend you to do so as well, as it gives a very nice insight in Iceland culture, which includes an incredibly amount of trolls, elves and other magical creatures. Icelanders take fairy tales very seriously. With these (hi)stories in mind, the rock formations can get a totally new dimension, and you inspect all small caves just a bit more extensive.
Don’t bring your umbrella
Don’t bring your umbrella, but wear a wind jacket instead, as it’s not comfortable to keep your umbrella up with the strong winds that pass the island regularly. Sometimes it just feels the wind is blowing from all directions.
Tank at every gas station
There can be a large distance between gas stations in Iceland, so top your tack frequently. We also ran out of gas, when the ring road was blocked due to an accident, and we had to do a detour of 70KM. It were the longest 70 KM of our lives. When you arrive at a gas station, take a closer look at them, as gas stations in Iceland are a strange breed. They can very well be a peculiar combination of retail, grocery, tourist information and community center.
Don’t step on the moss
Moss on a rock
Nature is fragile, especially in the harsh climate of Iceland. Don’t leave the path, stick on the trail, and don’t step on the moss. The moss is easily damaged, and potentially irreparably. Footprints – and tire marks – can take a very long time to heal.
Go in June (or in September)
June is a perfect month for traveling to Iceland, as the melting ice makes the waterfalls impressive. The flowers are blooming, the birds are breeding, and the weather is comfortable. Furthermore, the midnight sun will give you an energy boost, so you will enjoy the island even more! The only downside is that you will not experience the Northern Lights. If these are high on your list, we recommend you to go in September, when the weather is still nice, but the nights are dark enough to see the magical phenomenon.
Bring your bottle
Iceland’s tap water is not only completely
safe to drink, it is probably the tastiest water you have ever had. So don’t
burden the environment (and your wallet) by buying bottled water, just bring
bottles from home and fill them with Iceland’s tap water.
Money-saving tips when going to Iceland
Iceland is worth every penny, as it is such a beautiful country. However, it is one of the most expensive countries in the world. But it does not need to be an expensive holiday if you follow our tips.
Nature is free
The number one reason why Iceland does not need to be extensive is because of its spectacular nature, which will keep you occupied during your whole stay. Hiking through the mountains, watching waterfalls, ice lakes, and glaciers, and looking for puffins is simply free.
Drink water from the tap
Drink water from the tap, it is completely safe and very clean. In fact, it is probably the tastiest water you can get. So don’t burden the environment (and your wallet) by buying bottled water, just bring bottles from home and fill them with Iceland’s tap water.
Buy food at the supermarket (just don’t count on ‘Bonus’
Buy your breakfast and lunch at the supermarket. This will easily save you some money. There are supermarkets in almost every town. ‘Bonus’ is said to be the cheapest supermarket, however it has quite restricted opening hours and it is mostly located close to Reykjavik, which is why we did not manage to shop at Bonus. However, also at other supermarkets, we could shop some bread, hummus, fruits, snacks and Skyr, more than enough to keep us filled for the day, under €10 per day per person. It might be wise to pack a knife and a plate, to conveniently prepare the food.
Book your stay wisely
Hotels in Iceland are not cheap, but you can find nice hotels for €80 per night (two persons). You just have to be a bit creative. Our cheapest stay was a capsule hotel in Akureyri. Our best was a tiny house in Egilsstadir. If you cannot find an affordable stay right away, it can also be worthwile to wait a little longer, as prices may drop closer to the date. Use different booking sites to find the best deal. We always go for Airbnb and booking.com, and also use google to find local
Persepolis and its nearby sites are well known, but Iran has much more to offer for those who love history, culture and antique architecture. There are a couple of excellent sites relatively close together in the South Western part of Iran. They are of the beaten track, so most ordinary tours don’t go there, and it takes a bit of an effort to see them. But it’s certainly worth it. So let us guide you to these ‘hidden gems’ of ancient Iran.
The easiest
way to get there is to fly to Ahvaz. Ahvaz Airport has a lot of domestic
connections and some international flights. From here, you can arrange a tour
or just rent a taxi for a day. We did the latter and were very satisfied with
our choice. The taxi driver was friendly, had an airconditioned car and had
gave some insightful information.
Something
we should mention; every Iranian we told that we were going to this corner of
the country was shaking their head, because even in Spring, temperatures can reach
a whopping 50 degrees Celsius. And because it’s a river delta area, the heat is
humid. It took some getting used to after the relative coolness of the desert.
Susa
Susa – The other Capital
of the Persian Empire
Our first
destination of the day was the ancient Elam capital of Susa, nowadays Shush.
Susa is a truly ancient city. The first settlement dates from 4,395 BCE, more
than 6,400 years ago. In the 4th millennium BCE, the city came under
the influence of the Sumerian city of Uruk. From 3,100 to 2,700 BCE Susa became
the centre of the Elam civilization and the Iranian history starts at this
time. For 2,000 years Susa developed, sometimes as the centre of Elam, other
times under the larger Akkadian empire. The Elam empire came to an end in
647BCE when the Assyrian king Ashurbanipal levelled the city.
Tile decoration
Susa came Persian
Achaemenid control during the rule of Cyrus the Great around 540BCE. Darius the
Great made Susa the winter capital of the Persian empire. The oldest surviving theatre
play is situated in the city during this time (The Persians).
Susa would
be conquered by Alexander the Great who held his mass wedding between his
commanders and Persian nobility. It became a capital of the Parthian empire
when it became independent and it was the furthest eastern expansion of the
Roman Empire as Trajan briefly captured the city.
The city
would be destroyed another two times. Once by the Arabs as they conquered
Persia and later by the Mongols. However, the ruins and some preserved reliefs
of the city can still be seen today.
Museum
At the
entrance to the archaeological site of ancient Susa is a little museum with
some beautiful finds and a lot of explanation about the history of the site. Much
of the reliefs in the museum are copies, since the original were brought to
France and can be seen in the Louvre museum.
Royal city
The old
royal city was located on an artificial mount (tepe). So, climb the mount as
you exit the museum. The major remains you can see here are the foundations of
Darius his palace. Susa was his favourite capital. This palace was built at the
same time as the palace in Persepolis. It would also have included a large
hypostyle hall (apadana) as you can still partly see at Persepolis.
Castle
Towering over the archaeological site is the crusader-style castle built by the French archaeologists in 1885 to protect themselves. The castle is a strange anomaly in Iran, it reminds you of the castles in France and the crusader castles in the Middle East. But it is neither.
Tomb of David
Tomb of David
Another
site is the tomb of the prophet David. He is said to be buried here, the church
which used to house his remains was destroyed by the invading Arabs. But he is
said to be reburied in the tomb.
Haft
Tepe
On your way
from Shush to the ziggurat of Choga Zanbil lies Haft Tepe (Seven Hills), which
probably is the ancient town of Tikni. Here you’ll find several Royal Tombs,
and other remains of what could be a palace and a ziggurat. The museum explains
much about the site and its relation to both ancient Susa and Choga Zanbil.
Choga Zanbil
Choga Zanbil
The
ziggurat of Choga Zanbil is the best example of a ziggurat in Iran. Chogha
Zanbil is an Elamite ziggurat built in the 13th century BCE. The
Elamite king Untash-Napirisha founded it in honour of the god Inshushimah.
Around the ziggurat are smaller temples dedicated to other Elamite gods. The
ziggurat was made from mud bricks, stacks of unused baked bricks still stand
next to the building. The original name of the site was Dur Untash, town of
Untash. Choga Zanbil is the highlight of this trip and may even be one of the
best things you’ll see in Iran period.
Shushtar
We end our
trip in Shushtar and stay the night to continue northwards by bus to ancient
Bisotun. You can also return to Ahvaz and continue your journey from there as
it holds more options. However, you’ll not see something like Sushtar anywhere
else in the world. Shushtar was one of the places where captured Roman legionnaires
were set to work. The remains of their work can still be seen today.
Band-e Kaisar
Band-e Kaisar
The Romans built
the bridge over the river Karun, it’s not in the best of states but many of its
arches can still be seen on both sides of the riverbanks. You can go on a semi-refreshing
little river cruise on one of the speedboats on offer by the locals.
Hydraulic system
The main
site is the UNESCO world heritage site of the Hydraulic dam and water mills
complex. The complex is Sassanid in origin and probably the Roman engineers
also worked on this complex. Sadly, many of the original mills have been
destroyed, but you can still see the overall structure and wander through it.
We watched a carpet maker weave his carpet powered by water here.
The northern Italian city of Turin is beautifully located on the flanks of the Italian Alps. It’s just a short train ride away from Milan so it’s ideal for a day trip from that city. But there is plenty to do and Turin can also serve as a base to explore this region of Italy.
History of Turin
The history of Turin begins in Roman times, when the Romans founded the colony Augusta Taurinorum. Turin bears the name of the people who are said to have lived in the area. After the fall of the Western Roman Empire, Turin changed hands several times until it came into the hands of the counts of Savoy in the 11th Century. It became the capital of the duchy of Savoy in the 16th century and the capital of the Kingdom of Sardinia in the early 19th century. After the unification of Italy in 1861, it became the first capital of Italy. During this time the area was also heavily industrialised. This made Turin a target of heavy Allied bombing during the Second World War.
Top sights in Turin
Egyptian Museum
Besides the
character and all the beautiful buildings in this city, the biggest draw is the
Egyptian Museum. It’s the second biggest Egyptian museum in the world, only
beaten by the one in Cairo. So, if you have the slightest interest in ancient
Egypt, history or art, go visit this museum. The collection is outstanding and
covers all aspects of life and culture in Ancient Egypt.
Piazza Castello
Nearby is
the Piazza Castello, the cultural heart of the city. Here you’ll find to
palaces which now mainly serve as museums. The Palazzo Madama built on the site of the ancient Roman city gates.
Two of the Roman towers still form part of the back of this palace. It houses
the Museum of Ancient Art, which is a confusing name since the collection dates
from the 15th-18th century.
Palazzo Reale
The main sight of the square is the Palazzo Reale. This former Royal Palace of the house of Savoy now houses a multitude of different museums. There is the main building of the Palazzo Reale itself, where you can marvel at the beautiful rooms and furniture of the palace. Then you have the southern wing with the Armoury which houses a large collection of medieval weapons. The northern wing houses the Galleria Sabauda with beautiful paintings and sculptures and the Museo di antichità with its collection of local Roman finds including a spectacular bronze mask. Attached to the palace is the chapel of the holy shroud, which houses the famous Shroud of Turin. The chapel has recently reopened after a 21-year restoration after a fire. But don’t expect to see the real shroud, it’s only on display once every few decades. But if you want to know more, you can visit the Museum of the shroud where you can also see a replica.
Teatro Romano
Behind the Palazzo, you can also visit some of the Roman remains in the city. Another piece of the city wall and the gate Porte Palatini and the Roman theatre are the most visible things.
Catadrale di San Giovani
Battista
Attached to
the chapel for the shroud is the Turin cathedral Catadrale di San Giovani
Battista. On the site had stood 3 Lombard churches next to each other, all of
them were destroyed to make a place for this cathedral at the end of the 15th
century.
Castello di Rivoli
A bit
outside of the town lies the Castello di Rivoli. Another former residence of
the royal family of Savoy. Nowadays it’s the oldest contemporary art museum in
Italy. From the castle grounds, you’ll have some great views of the surrounding
village and Turin in the background.
Museo d’arte Orientale
(MAO)
Another
great museum with art from another part of the world is the Museo d’arte
Orientale. This Asian art museum has a diverse collection of art from the whole
continent, spanning several millennia.
Israel
has unbelievable much to offer for its relatively small size. From the holy
city of Jerusalem to the party city Tel
Aviv. From dry deserts to Roman ruins, to
coral reef and white beaches. Not to mention its cuisine: We cannot get enough
of hummus and falafel. Because Israel is
not exactly the cheapest country for travelling,
we’ve packed the best stuff in just four days. Find out more below!
This itinerary for Israel starts in Eilat, but you can also choose Jerusalem or Tel Aviv as starting points.
Day 1 – Eastern Israel: Dead sea and Masada
Rent a car in Eilat and leave Eilat right away, driving towards Jerusalem. It is not difficult to come into a vacation vibe, crossing through the dry desert, passing tons of palm trees, date plantations, and beautiful mountain sceneries.
Dead Sea
Dead Sea
You will pass the Dead Sea on the way, where you definitely should make a stopover. Being unable to dive, or even swim, in this lake, is an unforgettable and unique experience: You are only able to float on top of the water, and not in the water. There are free public beaches, but also somewhere you must pay a little like Kalia Beach, with natural (and healthy?) mud, Biankini Beach and Neve Midbar Beach. Good free swim spots are Ein Gedi and Ein Bokek. Just see what fits your schedule, as floating on the lowest point on earth is a very welcome change to the driving.
Masada
You will also pass by Masada, an ancient fortification on the top of a rock plateau. According
to Josephus, the siege of Masada by troops of the Roman Empire at the end of
the First Jewish–Roman War ended in the mass suicide of 960 people, the Sicarii
rebels, and their families hiding there. If
you have time, go here for sunrise or sunset.
You will arrive in Jerusalem in the
evening. Go to bed on time – as the next day will be busy!
Day
2 – Jerusalem in one day
The Holy City of Jerusalem has a lot to
offer. But it is possible to see its highlights in just one day. You will need
to get up early to make it to the finish on time!
Temple Mount
Start at the Temple Mount, important for Judaism, Christianity and Islam. The
Temple Mount has remarkable opening hours: 7:30-10: 30 AM and 12:30-1:30 PM. Line up at 7 AM to avoid long lines and to make it in at 7:30 sharp. Then you
will experience an almost empty Temple Mount. Great for taking pictures! The
highlight of the Temple Mount is the Dome
of the Rock with its golden roof.
Dome of the Rock
Western Wall
Pay a visit to the Western Wall on your way to the Temple Mount. This is the holiest
Jewish place as it’s a remain of the foundations of the second Jewish temple
build by the Roman client king Herod the Great. The temple and the rest of
Jerusalem was destroyed by the Romans in 70 CE after the first Jewish Revolt.
You have a good overview of the two gender separated prayer areas from the
walkway to the mount itself.
Church of Saint Anne
Close to the Temple Mount North-exit, lies
the Church of Saint Anne, a Roman
Catholic church that is not on every Jerusalem-itinerary, but we advise you to
go. It is the best-preserved Crusader church in Jerusalem and it has been said
that it is the birthplace of the Virgin Mary. Its courtyard creates a
tranquillity that contrasts the bustling streets of the Muslim Quarter. There
is also a large excavation area of the Pools of Bethesda.
Church of the Holy Sepulchre
Church of the Holy Sepulchre
Next, walk the Via Dolorosa towards the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. This
church contains the two holiest sites in Christianity: The site where Jesus was
crucified and Jesus’ empty tomb, where he is said to have been buried and
resurrected. This holiness makes this church a major Christian pilgrimage
destination. Fun fact: Control over the church is shared between several
Christian denominations (Greek Orthodox, Armenian Apostolic, Roman Catholic and
some others). The key is guarded by a Muslim family, as only they were trusted
by all the Christian denominations.
Tower of David
We follow the Via Dolorosa back to the Tower of David, near the Jaffa Gate
entrance in the West. You can visit the tower
if you’re not too hungry yet. Just outside the old city are some cafés where
you can have a lunch with falafel and hummus.
Israel Museum
Israel Museum
After lunch, take a bus to the Israel Museum. Don’t underestimate the
time that you want to spend in Israel’s national museum, as it huge and it has
a lot to offer. From a modern sculpture garden
to an archaeology wing, fine arts, Jewish art, exhibitions, and, of course, the
Dead Sea Scrolls.
Yad Vashem
Alternatively, you can visit Yad Vashem, Israel’s official memorial
to the victims of the Holocaust, in the
western part of the city. The museum offers an extensive exhibition of the
different stages and aspects of the Holocaust.
Olive Mountain
After all this culture, it is nice to end
the day by walking the Olive Mountain and watching the sunset behind the holy city. You can see the
Golden Gate or Gate of Mercy: A closed gate, that, according to Jewish belief, only will be reopened when the Anointed
One (Messiah) will come.
Day 3 – Ancient Northern Israel: Acre, Caesarea and Tel Aviv
It’s time to leave Jerusalem, and drive up
North, to Acre.
Acre
Crusader
Citadel
Crusader citadel
The main sights in Acre are all situated in
its compact old Town behind the old city walls. These walls are the perfect
point to start your tour of the city. They bring you back in time and give you
an overview of the city. Make your way towards the Crusader citadel, here you can explore the remains of the heart of
the Crusader Kingdom. Take the underground Templar
tunnels, like the last crusaders did when they were chased out of the Holy
land by the Mamaluks in 1291.
Old
Port
Explore the old port and its remaining
fortified towers. When you climb the southwestern
bastion you can see the foundations of the old crusader castle now submerged
under the Mediterranean sea. When we were there the Caravanserai Khan al-Umdan
was closed due to being in disrepair. But its worth to try and get a peek at this old inn.
Caesarea
Get back on the road as we drive down south
and go even further back in time to the Roman city of Caesarea. It was built by
their client-king Herod the Great in the
last decades BCE. Later it served as the Roman and Byzantine capital of Judea
and Palestine.
Aqueduct
Roman aqueduct
First head to the aqueduct on the beach
just north of the city. This aqueduct used to provide water for the city, now
it crumbles away and is used as a picknick
spot for the beachgoers.
Caesarea
Maritima
Most of the Roman remains and excavations
can be found in the Caesarea National Park. Here you can find the remains of
the Roman harbour, the huge hippodrome, a Roman theatre and houses and temples.
Tel
Aviv
Tel Aviv seen from Jaffa
Tel
Aviv Museum of Art
Tel Aviv is a city that never sleeps. Which
is great if you want to maximize your time like us. The one thing you must see
in this city is its excellent museum of art. It has a superb collection of modern and contemporary art and of Israeli Art.
Tuesday and Thursday the museum is open until 21h.
Tel Aviv is filled with great restaurants,
bars and nightclubs. So unwind a bit, but try to get up early the next day to
beat the morning rush-hour.
If you have more time to spend here, go to
the beach, get on a bike and cycle along the coastline to the old historic town
of Jaffa.
Day 4 – Hot southern Israel: Avdat, Mitzpe Ramon Negev desert, snorkelling
Today is already our last day, so we have a
lot of driving to go back south to Eilat.
Ein
Avdat National Park
Our first stop will be in the Negev desert,
in Ein Avdat National Park. If you head to the northern entrance of the park,
you can descend into the Canyon and go for a nice hike here. If you just want
to take in the sights and go for a short walk, take the western entrance for
great views of the canyon.
Ein Avdat
Avdat
Just a couple of minutes south of the
western entrance lies the ancient hillside Nabataean city of Avdat. It was a
major city on the Incense route, only passed in importance by Petra. The city
was founded by the Nabataean in the 3rd century BCE and later
inhabited by Romans and Byzantines. The city lies on top of a hill with marvellous views of the surrounding Negev
desert. Just north of the city lies the archaeological
remains of a Roman legionary camp.
Avdat
Mitzpe
Ramon
A
little bit further south lies the small town of Mitzpe Ramon. From the visitor’s
centre, you have an awesome view of the
Ramon Crater. Although the Ramon crater isn’t really a
crater but the worlds largest Makhtesh, a desert valley surrounded by steep
walls. This is also an ideal site to spot some Nubian ibex.
Eilat
Eilat is Israel’s southernmost city on the Red Sea and an ideal
place to go snorkelling. Temperatures are
pleasant throughout the winter and hot during the summer and the sun shines
almost all days of the year. The main attraction are the coral reefs.
Snorkelling in the Red Sea
Israel
– three airport options
We had return flights to the budget airport
of Ovda, Eilat. You could also fly to Eilat directly or Ben Gurion
International airport, between Tel Aviv and Jerusalem.
When to go to Israel?
The best time to visit Israel is March-May
and September – November: Not too hot, but nice weather to go out and about.
Just watch out for the Jewish holidays Passover (April) and Rosh Hashana
(September / October), as many families will go on trips; it will be busy, and
hotels will be expensive.
We travelled
at the beginning of February, to have a nice vitamin-D boost while it was dark
and cold back home. We had great weather: ~25 degrees Celsius and sunny.
However, we learned that we were quite lucky with the weather, as it also can
be cold and wet in February. But it’s also quieter at the major sites.
Barcelona is
a great Mediterranean city with its own identity, which is quite different from
the rest of Spain. It’s a major tourist destination. The European youth goes to
the nearby Costa Brava for their summer holidays and spring breaks. For
everybody else, it’s a destination to enjoy great food, sunny weather, Gaudi
and much more. So, join their ranks and visit this city. The best time to go is
in the Spring and Autumn. Then the crowds are a bit thinner and the weather is
nice but not too hot the walk around all day.
There is a
lot to do in Barcelona, so stay for a minimum of 2 days to get a good
impression of the city. In 3 days you should be able to see most of it. Stay a
bit longer if you want to enjoy the beaches, have a day trip to nearby Tarragona
or visit the Dali museum in Figueres.
Day 1 Montjuïc, museums and views
We like to
walk to counterbalance the extra eating and drinking we usually do on a
holiday. But alternatively, Barcelona has an excellent public transport system
to get you to all the major sites.
Placa
Espanya Former bull ring
Start the
day on Place Espanya, here you’ll find the former bullfighting arena. This is a
good example of the difference between Catalunya and Spain, as opposed to in
the rest of Spain, bullfighting is banned in Catalunya. So, the former bull
ring is turned into a shopping mall which offers some good vistas of the city
from the upper deck for free.
Access to Montjuïc
National Art Museum of Catalonia
Make your
way towards the hill of Montjuïc. Here you’ll find great museums, nice parks, a
castle and great viewpoints of the city and the harbour.
Caixa Forum
Barcelona
Check out
the website of the Caixa Forum Barcelona, this art centre hosts a variety of
art exhibition, theatre and much more. It’s not so expensive and there are
major exhibitions from time to time.
National
Art Museum of Catalonia
As you
climb the steps weaving through the traders and the tourists, you’ll get
increasingly better views of the city. Once you’re at the top of the stairs you
are in front of the National Art Museum of Catalonia. Although I can understand
that this museum is not to everyone’s taste, I can’t recommend it enough. The
museum houses an outstanding collection of Medieval Art. Inside the museum you’ll
find rebuilt churches with original Romanesque frescos, a lot of crucifixes, iconography
and reliquary art. The building itself is also beautiful, especially the large
hall.
Fundacio
Joan Miro
Fundacio Joan Miro
A little
further up the hill lies the Fundacio Joan Miro. This modern art museum was
started by the artist himself and has a big collection of his works. The museum
is housed in a nice modern building with beautiful views of the city. The naïve
style of Joan Miro may not be for everyone, but the broad range of paintings
owned by the museum gives a good insight into the artistic development of Miro.
This, in turn, gives the viewer a better understanding of the art and may even
convert some of you.
Montjuïc Castle
Further up
the hill lies the Montjuïc Castle. This castle was built in the 17th
century to control the city as Catalunya had fallen under Spanish rule. The
fortress was used to bombed the city on several occasion and was the place of executions
during the Spanish civil war. Now it’s a good place to relax and walk around
and it has great views of both the city and the nearby harbour.
Funicular
de Montjuïc
You can
walk down or use the Funicular de Montjuïc.
Eglasia de
Sant Pau del Camp
Near the
end of the Funicular, you’ll find the Sant Pau del Camp church. This is the
oldest church of Barcelona, the current church replaced an earlier church which
Muslim troops destroyed in 985.
Centre de
Cultura Contemporania de Barcelona
If you have some energy left, go to the Museu d’Art Contemporani de Barcelona. It’s open until 19.30 so it can entertain you while you have to wait for the Spanish dinner time to arrive.
Food
Vegan Tapas
Eat
something at the Carrer dels Tallers or the nearby Rambla.
Day 2 Gaudi
The theme
of this day is Gaudi. Although there is much more to Barcelona than Gaudi, he
is an important reason for the popularity of the city. So today we will visit
the best sites. The enormous popularity of Gaudi has led to a highly inflated
entrance price to most of the buildings associated with him. Therefore it’s
best to pick some sites and view the rest from outside unless you’re a mega
fan.
Palau Güell
Palau Güell
is one of the first works of Gaudi in Barcelona. It was commissioned by the
same Güell family who would later ask Gaudi to design the famous Park Güell.
The house was finished in 1890 at was the home of the Güell family until they
moved to the Park Güell. Highlights are the huge central hall with its
staircase and the rooftop with its eccentric chimneys. This is also the
cheapest house designed by Gaudi in Barcelona to visit.
Illa de la
Discòrdia
This city block on Passeig de Gràcia has a nice concentration of modernist buildings, the Casa Batlló and the Casa Amatller are both here.
Casa Batlló
Casa Batlló
After his
work on the Park Güell, Josep
Batlló hired Gaudi to remodel his home. Gaudi did this in a spectacular way.
The front of the house looks like it belongs in a fairytale. There are almost
no straight lines in sight. Much of the interior has just recently been
restored back to the original state. The best rooms in the house are on the
noble floor with its beautiful windows onto the Passeig de Gràcia. There are several different
tickets available, including ones where you can visit the house with fewer
visitors at a premium price.
Casa Amatller
Although
not designed by Gaudi, this modernist building designed by Josep Puig i
Cadafalch lies next to Gaudi’s Casa Batllo and is part of the so-called Illa de
la Discòrdia (Block of discord) of several modernist buildings. This city block
provides a good opportunity to compare the different modernist architects.
Fundació
Antoni Tàpies
Around the
corner lies the Fundació Antoni Tàpies. This museum is dedicated to the work of
Antoni Tàpies, a modern Spanish painter. The museum usually has works by Antoni
Tàpies on display, together with exhibitions of works by other contemporary
artists.
La Pedrera
/ Casa Mila
A bit
further to the north, along the Passeig de Gràcia lies the Casa Milà or La Pedrera
as it is also known. This is the last private residence designed by Gaudi, who
finished his work here in 1912. It was not received well when it was finished,
hence its nickname la Pedrera, the stone quarry. Soon after it was built the
Mila family, dissatisfied with much of Gaudi’s work sold the furniture and redid
the walls. The building deteriorated after their death and only in the 1980s
were efforts made to restore the building back to its original state. This is
another Gaudi building with premium access tickets.
Casa Mila
Sagrada
Familia
The most
famous of all Gaudi buildings is the Sagrada Familia. This neo-gothic church is
still not finished and is already being restored. This is another of Gaudi’s
buildings which divides opinions. I’m personally on the side of George Orwell
who called it “one of the
most hideous buildings in the world”. But I understand the attraction it
holds to people.
That said,
the entrance price is ridiculously high for a church and I would advise people
to just walk around the building. This gives a perfect impression of what the
building looks like and saves you money for dinner later.
Parc Güell
It’s only
fitting to end the day back at another Güell assignment. This time Güell asked Gaudi to
design a whole housing development. It was a complete failure and only two
houses were built, one of which Gaudi bought himself as it was not getting
sold.
Parc Güell
The park has
two parts, a part which you can enjoy for free. Here you can walk around in the
shade, enjoy the little quirks designed by Gaudi and enjoy the views over the
city from one of the many vistas the park offers. The other part comprises of Gaudi’s
house and the pavilion, this area is only accessible with a ticket. Ticket
prices are a bit more reasonable here, so if you haven’t had enough of Gaudi
give it a try and enjoy some more of his creations up close.
Day 3 Ancient
Barcelona
After all
this modernist architecture you would think Barcelona is foremost a modern
city, but it also has a very old historic heart. The Barri Gothic, or the
gothic district, is the old city centre with medieval alleyways and buildings
dating all the way back to Roman times.
Cathedral of Santa Eulalia
Cathedral
of Santa Eulalia
In the
heart of this district lies the Cathedral of Santa Eulalia. This cathedral was consecrated
in 1339, but the façade was not finished until the 19th century. In
the next-door historical museum, you can see the foundations of the earlier
Visigoth church.
MUHB Plaça
del Rei
To see some
of the Roman and Visigoth remains, visit the Museu d’Historia de Barcelona
(MUHB) at Plaça del Rei. Here you’ll find the remains of the Roman town, it’s
shops and industries and the finds associated with those activities. Additionally,
there are also Visigoth remains of a church and a cloister. It’s a great museum
to get an idea of the early origins of the city. The museum also includes the Chapel of Santa Àgata from 1302.
Musee
Frederic Mares
If you like
ancient and medieval sculptures, visit the Musee Frederic Mares. It has a good
collection of sculptures up to the 14th century. Frederic Mares was
a collector of many things, which becomes obvious if you see his collector’s
cabinets. This is an enormous random collection of antiques and curiosities spread out over 17 halls.
Temple of Augustus
South of
the cathedral stand four remaining Corinthian columns of the temple of
Augustus. This shrine to the imperial cult has been incorporated into the
surrounding buildings and can be visited for free.
Basilica de
Santa Maria del Mar
A bit
further towards the sea lies the Basilica de Santa Maria del Mar. This gothic
church was built in the 14th century. Much of its interior
decoration has been lost due to extensive fires during the Spanish Civil war.
Picasso
Museum
Pablo
Picasso moved to Barcelona with his family when he was thirteen. Here he
followed some classes at the art academy before he moved to Madrid and later
Paris. This museum has an excellent collection of his earliest work and gives a
great impression of his development as an artist. Sadly, the collection lacks
good pieces from his later work, but the insight into his early development
still makes it a must-see for Picasso fans.
