Daibatsuden

Day trip to Nara and Uji

While you’re in Kyoto or Osaka, make sure to leave some time to visit Nara, Horyu-ji and Uji. Nara was founded in 710 CE as Heijo-kyo (Citadel of Peace) to serve as the permanent capital of Japan. This lasted for 74 years until emperor Kammu decided to move the court out of Nara due to ever growing intrigues. These years left Nara with some magnificent history and sites.

You can do this day trip either from Kyoto or Osaka. It’s around an hour by train from both cities. It is slightly faster when you travel with the private rail companies and a little bit longer when you opt to travel the whole way with JR. This last option would save you money if you have a JR rail pass.

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Nara

Everything in Nara is open from 9 a.m., many sites open even earlier. So, if you want to beat the crowds, leave early. If you want to be extremely time efficient and don’t mind getting up really early. Then start at Horyu-ji when you’re coming from Kyoto or Uji when travelling from Osaka.

Kofuku-ji

Kofuku-ji
Kofuku-ji

The temple complex Kofuku-ji is a 15-minute walk from the station along Sanjo dori. You’ll pass some coffee shops and convenience stores along the way, nice if you need to pick up breakfast or lunch.

The temple complex of Kofuku-ji was established in 669 CE and moved to its current site when Nara became the capital in 710 CE. It remained an important temple complex for centuries until a gradual decline in power beginning in the 15th century. The temple was a victim of the Meiji restoration as many of its buildings were torn down and many of its valuables were lost.

The highlights of the complex are the five-storey pagoda, the Tohon-do with its statues and the modern Kohuihokan. The Kohuihokan houses the saved treasures from the destroyed buildings. The hall will reopen on 1 January 2018 after a yearlong restoration period.

Nara deer
Nara deer

Nara-koen

Nara-koen is a large park which houses most of the major sites in Nara. Beside the ancient sites, the deer are another attraction. But beware of them when eating or when with little children since they can be really intrusive.

Nara National Museum

Make your way through the park towards Nara National Museum. This museum has a large collection of statues and national treasures. Check their website to see what’s on display since only a small part of the collection is on display at the same time.

Todai-ji

Just north of the museum, behind Nandai-mon, lies Todai-ji, the main attraction of Nara. Emperor Shomu founded this temple complex in 745 CE. Most people come here to see the Daibatsu (Great Buddha) and its hall, the Daibatsuden. The magnificent Daibatsuden was the biggest wooden building in the world until 1998. The current structure is a reconstruction from 1709, only two thirds of the original size. The Daibatsu itself is 15 metres high and was originally casted in 752 CE. Not much is left of that original statue due to fires and earthquakes, but it remains a marvel anyway.

Daibatsu
Daibatsu

Head eastwards to get a nice view of Nara from Nigatsu-do. There, you can also visit Nara’s oldest remaining building, Sangatsu-do dating from 729.

Kasuga Taisha

From here it’s a nice walk through the park along lantern-lid paths towards Kasuga Taisha. Kusuga Taisha is an important Shinto shrine that was founded in 768. As you continue southwards you’ll pass numerous other Shinto shrines until you exit the park.

It’s a short walk to the 1300-year old temple of Shin-Yakushi-ji. Which houses some interesting statues. From here it’s a 30-min walk back to the train station.

Horyu-ji

Take either the bus or the train to Horyu-ji. It will take you between 40-60 minutes to get there.

Even according to Japanese standards, Horyu-ji is an ancient site. Prince Shotoku built Horyu-ji in 607 CE as one of the earliest Buddhist sites in Japan. It burnt down in 670 CE but was quickly rebuilt. Today it’s home to the oldest Buddhist building in Japan. Aside from that, Kon-do (Golden Hall) is also the oldest wooden structure in the world. The various temple buildings house some great early Buddhist statues.

Exit through the northeast gate, for a visit of Chuyu-ji. Chuyu-ji is a sixth century nunnery which served as residency for Prince Shotoku’s mother. A highlight of the complex is the Miroku Bosatsu statue from the early seventh century.

Take the bus back to the station and take the train back to Nara and continue towards Uji.

Uji

Byodo-in
Byodo-in

When you arrive in Uji, exit the station and head towards the river. As soon as you’re near the bridge, you’ll see a statue dedicated to Murasuki Shikibu, writer of the Tale of Genji. The last ten chapters of this 11th century novel are set in Uji. You can learn more about this book and the last chapters in the Tale of the Genji museum across the bridge.

We don’t cross the bridge, but go right along the river. Since Uji is the tea capital of Japan, you’ll find plenty of tea shops here. They sell tea in all price classes. Due to the light weight and the sturdy packaging of the tea, it makes for an ideal souvenir or gift.

Byodo-in

tea-ceremony
Tea ceremony

Soon you’ll come upon the entrance to Byodo-in. This temple complex was founded in 1052. The oldest remaining building in the complex is Hoo-do (Phoenix Hall) which dates from 1053. The official name is Amida hall, after the Amida Buddha statue it houses. You can see the building on the 10-yen coin.

After exiting the temple complex, continue along the river until you’ll find the tourist office. The tourist office exploits a traditional Japanese tea house. Here you can enjoy a traditional Japanese tea ceremony and finish your day in style.

If you’re looking for tips for Kyoto, read our 2-day itinerary.

Your guide to Nara
Beppu

Soaking away in Beppu

Beppu is a world apart. Throughout the town steam and sulfur fumes are rising up from between the tiles. It is easy to feel lost in all choices for hot springs, sand, mud and foot baths. We will give you some pointers.

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The Hells of Beppu

Blood Hell
Blood Hell

The hells (Jigoku) of Beppu, are eight spectacular hot springs in surrealistic colours, for viewing rather than bathing. We advise you to visit only Umi Jigoku and Oniishi Bozu Jigoku. These are the most impressive ones and do not keep animals, in contrast to Yama Jigoku and Oniyama Jigoku.

We liked Umi Jigoku best, with its cobalt blue colour, big amounts of steam, beautiful gardens, water lilies and even an onsen in which you can bath your feet. This makes Umi Jigoku worth a visit.

Oniishi Bozu Jigoku (meaning Shaven Monk’s Head Hell), shows intriguing bubbling grey mud pots. The bubbles have similarities to the heads of monks. The bubbles make great sounds and figures. This place has also a foot onsen.

Taking a bath

Mount Tsurumi
Mount Tsurumi

The downside of visiting Beppu as a heterosexual couple, is that it is hard to find a mixed gender (konyoku) onsen. Therefor we like Hoyo Land Konya Jigoku a lot, as it has a partially mixed mud bath outside, separated by bamboo poles. Inside, there is a small onsen maze to keep you occupied with different types of baths for another 30 minutes.

Just remember that your clothes will have a sulphur smell, as a very present souvenir. It took us a couple of laundries to get rid of it. If you don’t want to get wet, you can also choose for a sand bath on the beach. Just note that it costs around 1,000 yen and will last for only 10 minutes.

Other things to do

Are you totally relaxed by all the bathing? Try climbing Mount Tsurumi, a mountain with ropeway that overlooks the city. Furthermore, you can take a lesson in ‘Steam Cooking’, where you cook food with hot spring food. Also, Mount Aso is just a bus or train ride around the corner. Just make sure the active volcano is not too active: They activate a no-entry zone when this is the case, whereby it is impossible to approach and see the crater.

Guido to Beppu
Zen garden

Kyoto in two days part II

Welcome at day 2 of our crazy schedule to get most of the highlights in Kyoto. If you missed the first part, you can read it here. Whether you’re a business traveller with a day to spare, on a tight schedule or just wanting to see as much as possible. We will give you as much of a complete overview of Kyoto as possible.

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Day 2

Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari

Fushimi Inari Taisha

Nothing wakes you up more than an early morning exercise, for this head over to Fushimi Inari. This site is accessible all day so come as early as you like. This should give you the opportunity for some beautiful undisturbed shots of the 10.000 torii along the way to the shrine at the top. As an added bonus, the shrine will come with a beautiful view of Kyoto. Both the site and the views are very photo-friendly.

Tōfuku-ji

From the top of the hill head north through the forest path. This way you can walk all the way towards Tōfuku-ji. This temple is famous for its fall foliage, the 600-year-old 22-meter-high entrance gate (Sanmon) and the different gardens.

Sanjūsangen-dō

Take the Keikan main line to Shichijō station, from there it’s a short walk to Sanjūsangen-dō. This temple houses 1.001 Kannon statues, 124 of them date back to before the 1249 fire. The others were made in the 13th Century after the fire. The main Kannon statue and some others were made by the sculptor Tankei. The outside gallery was used for archery competitions.

Kiyomizu-dera
Kiyomizu-dera

Kiyomizu-dera

Take the bus (line 202, 206 or 207) or walk for 25 minutes to Kiyomizu-dera. This temple complex with its wooden platform is an iconic site in Kyoto. The way towards the complex is lined with souvenir shops and all kinds of people dressed in traditional Japanese clothing make their way towards the temple.
The temple provides great views of the city from its viewing platform. If you want a good view of Kiyomizu-dera itself, make your way to the opposite hill via Otowa waterfall.

Jishu-jinja

Within the complex you’ll find various Shinto shrines helping people with their love life. Popular to test the quality of your relationship are the two ‘blind stones’. Walk between these two love stones with your eyes closed, if you can reach the other stone, you don’t have to worry about your relationship.

Nanzen-ji

Head north towards Nanzen-ji by taking bus 206 to Higashiyama station. Take the Tozai line for one stop to Keage station. From here it’s a short walk to the Nanzen-ji temple complex.
Start with the smaller sub temple of Konchi-in. It is famous for its’ dry gardens designed by the 17th century tea master Kobori Enshū. At Nanzen-ji you’ll also be able to get some great shōjin ryōri, Buddhist vegetarian meals.

Eikan-dō

ginkaku-ji
Silver Pavilion

On your way towards the Philosophers’ path you’ll pass Eikan-dō. This temple is a great place for maple leaf viewing in November.

Philosophers’ path

Continue northwards along the Philosophers’ path. This walk through the wooded hillside along a canal is named after a 20th century philosopher who walked here daily. After some 30 minutes, you will reach Ginkaku-ji.

Ginkaku-ji

It’s always important to align your expectations with reality to avoid disappointment. Ginkaku-ji (the silver pavilion) is not silver nor is its roof or anything else. But what it is, is a beautiful pavilion hidden away in a wooded area next to a pond and stylized Japanese dry gardens. So instead of impressing you with its shiny metals, it teases you with long windy hedged paths. Offering just a brief glimpse of the pavilion before you finally come up close.

Gion

Now it’s finally time to relax. Head over to the Gion neighbourhood. This is Kyoto’s famous Geisha district. Here you’ll find a lot of traditional wooden houses, many of which now function as restaurants. If you are up to spending a lot of money on food, head over to some of the best kaiseki-ryōri (Japanese haute cuisine) restaurants here. Otherwise an inexpensive but still great dining opportunity is always just around the corner wherever you are in this city.

We hoped you have enjoyed this itinerary. Also read our five-day itinerary to Tokyo and its surrounding area.

2 days in Kyoto
Bamboo forest

How to do Kyoto in two days part I

Of course, Kyoto can keep you occupied for a week, or even a lifetime. However, if your time in Japan is limited, and you want to visit more places during your stay, choices have to be made. In this post, you will learn how to maximize your sightseeing in Kyoto and pack the highlights in just two days. To make it work, an early start on both days is essential. It might be a good choice to stay central, with easy access to public transport and breakfast at an early time or on the go.

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Day 1

Ryōan-ji

Our first stop of the day is the beautiful zen garden of Ryōan-ji. The garden opens at 8 a.m., making it an ideal first stop as its best experienced with as few people as possible. Although this is true for most sites.

kinkaku-ji
Golden Pavilion

Kinkaku-ji (Rokuon-ji)

From Ryōan-ji, it’s either a 20-minute walk or a 10-minute bus ride to Kinkaku-ji. Kinkaku-ji is where you find the famous golden pavilion and since it opens at 9 a.m., with a bit of planning you can also be one of the first there. Enjoy this last bit of quiet sightseeing since it will be the last of the day. The Golden pavilion date back to 1397. Sadly, the current building is a 1955 reconstruction. The original structure burned down in 1950 when a monk tried to commit suicide by burning himself.

Tenryū-ji

When you are done at the Golden pavilion, take the bus to Kitanokakubaicho station and from here take the Keifuku Dentetia line via Katabinanotsuji station to Arashiyama station. It’s a short walk from the station to Tenryū-ji temple complex. Here you can enjoy some more zen gardens which date back to the 13th century.

Lunch

Depending on the time and your appetite, you could now get something to eat at Shigetsu. This restaurant serves some of the best vegetarian food in Kyoto. Otherwise continue onwards through Kaneama Koen and maybe eat your bento box of lunch here. Or continue towards the Sagano road of bamboo forest.

Bamboo forest
Arashiyama bamboo forest

Bamboo forest

At the Arashiyama bamboo forest you can join the hundreds of other tourists trying to capture this photogenic piece of road. We personally found it too busy to be able to enjoy it, so don’t expect a leisurely walk through a forest. Follow the road to the end and head towards Saga-Arashiyama station.

Nijō-jō

Take the train back to central Kyoto and get off at Nijo station. From here it’s just a short walk to Nijō-jō, the opulent castle of Togugawa Ieyasu. The castle was built to show the emperor that a new leader of Japan had emerged. The shoguns castle is filled with beautiful golden gilded screen doors and paintings.

Yasaka shrine

A short bus ride will bring you to Yasaka shrine. In July, this shrine hosts the Gion Matsuri, one of Kyoto’s biggest spectacles. Highlight of this festival is the parade on July 17, when richly decorated lantern-lit floats parade through central Kyoto. Afterwards walk through Marayami Park and make your way towards the Heian shrine.

Heian
Torii to Heian

Heian shrine

It’s hard to miss the entry to this shrine since it’s marked by an enormous torii. Heian shrine was built after the move of the capital to Tokyo to underscore Kyoto’s illustrious past as imperial capital. The main attraction is the garden in the back.

It’s almost time to treat yourself so make your way towards Kyoto station.
Depending on the time and your energy levels there is one more site to visit.

To-ji

Just south west of Kyoto station lies To-ji. The main feature of this temple complex is its five-story pagoda. With a height of almost 55 metres (180 feet), it’s the highest pagoda in Japan. The complex is linked to Kūkai (also known as Kōbō-Daishi) who was put in charge of the complex in 823, earlier he had founded his first monastery at Koyasan. Every 21st of the month the Meido, where Kōbō-Daishi is said to have lived, opens its doors to visitors. On this same day, there also is a famous flea market on the temple grounds.

Kyoto station

We end our day at Kyoto station. Marvel at the modern architecture, watch the crowds and have dinner at the food court. The restaurants with the longest lines are the hip and happening ones, so join the queue and wind down for the day. Read on to see what to do on the second day in Kyoto.

2 Days in Kyoto
Himeji Castle

Himeji Castle: an UNESCO WHS Review

History of the Himeji castle

First, a fort was built on the site of the current castle in 1333. This fort was demolished in 1346 and a castle was built to replace it. In the 16th century this castle was remodelled into Himeji castle. Some more extensive remodelling followed in the early 17th century. Apart from some demolished corridors and outer defensive, the castle has remained unaltered since then.

Luckily the castle was spared demolition in the Meiji period, a time when many Japanese castles were demolished because they were considered to be obsolete. And although it was hit by a firebomb in World War II, that bomb didn’t explode, so the castle also escaped destruction then. As a result, Himeji is one of the few remaining original castles in Japan.

Review of Himeji castle

Read more about how we rated Himeji castle and other sites at our UNESCO World Heritage Site Review.

Beauty: 4

Himeji castle is the picture-perfect Japanese castle. Recently renovated and restored, it once again shines in the sun and honours its name of ‘White Egret Castle’. Although the outside is beautiful, the inside is more bland. This results in an appreciation of 4 out of 5 for beauty.

Himeiji castle

Uniqueness: 4

Considered as one of the 12 remaining original Japanese castles, Himeji castle is quite unique. Especially since much of the different defence systems are still intact. This gives the opportunity to gain full insight into the defensive workings of a Japanese castle. Many other castles, either original or rebuilt, are just a Donjon or main tower with a gate and some outer defences.

A possible alternative would be Matsumoto castle, where the Donjon is also still in its original form, but that castle has far less outer defence systems. Japanese castles are quite unique and different from other castles. A big difference is the fact that they are mainly built from wood. This makes original castles like Himeji rare because of the dangers of fire, lightning and attack. All of this results in an appreciation of 4 out of 5 for uniqueness.

Experience: 5

At Himeji castle, there are different options available to enhance your experience:
– Free English language tours are provided by volunteers.
– An interactive augmented reality app which provides insights into the function and workings of different rooms and objects.
– Signs and explanations in Japanese and English
– Most of the grounds and buildings are accessible to the public.

Himeji city

Disability:

The main keep is not accessible for people in a wheelchair. But other areas are open for visitation. Guide dogs are allowed in the main keep but they can have trouble with the very steep stairs, especially when descending. So please keep this in mind when you plan your visit.

Value for money:

The cost of an entry ticket is in line with what you pay for other castles and historic sites in Japan. An average visit will take around 1,5 hours, which can be easily extended if you go for a walk through the castle grounds and take in all the information provided. So, a visit to Himeji castle is definitely good value for money.

Location: 5

Himeji lies a 45-minute train-ride away from Kyoto and makes for an easy half-day trip. The Shinkansen train station lies 15 minutes from the castle by foot, but there are also very frequent buses between the station and the castle, halving this journey in time.

The castle also lies on the route to Okayama, Hiroshima and the islands of Kyushu and Shikoku, which makes Himeji castle an ideal stop on your journey to other places in Japan. At the same time Himeji offers a wide selection of accommodations, so you can also stay for the night. This all leads to a score of 5 out of 5 for location.

Overall rating: 4.5

If you’re in Japan, you should definitely visit Himeji castle. It’s beautiful and quite a unique site. This world heritage site provides its visitors with a great and insightful experience for a price that is average compared to other castles and monuments. The location is easily accessible and should be able to fit into most travellers’ itinerary of Japan.

Curious about other Japanese castles? Read our article about original and restored Japanese castles to get some other suggestions.

Should you visit Himeji?
Spider

Five days in Tokyo | Nature in the city

This day in Tokyo is one of nature, this may seem surprising in one of the biggest cities of the world, but there are a lot of green spaces in Tokyo when you look for it. We will also visit the Mori art Museum for some great contemporary Japanese art and the best panoramic view of Tokyo. The neighbourhoods were visiting this day are also excellent for shopping, so if this is something you like, make sure to bring enough excess baggage space.

Shinjuku Gyoen

Shinjuku Gyoen

We start the day in Shinjuku Gyoen. The great size of Shinjuku Gyoen makes it a great place to escape the bustling city scape. It interestingly combines three forms of gardens. One part is dedicated to the traditional Japanese Garden. Another to the French formal garden. Elements of this style are a geometric plan, constrained and trimmed vegetation to demonstrate the mastery of man over nature. Another element is a terrace overlooking the garden, so you can get an overview of the design. The third part is dedicated to the English landscape garden, this style is known for its rolling grounds and big patches of grass against a woodland background with some big centrepiece trees. When you’re done exploring the garden, you can either head over to nearby Shinjuku for some shopping or continue straight to the Meiji shrine.

Shinjuku shopping

Shinjuku ward is huge and you can shop for days if you would like. The area around Shinjuku station has a cluster of many brands and shops and is a good option for a short, focused shopping trip. If you want your shopping to be more of an experience head over to Harajuku station and go down Takeshita-dori. It’s as much a shopping as a people watching experience. Just around the corner lies Jingumae where all the top brands have their flagship stores. Go there for more a more exclusive shopping experience or to watch the beautiful modern architecture of the exclusive shops.

Meiji Jingu

Meiji Jingu
Meiji Jingu

Harujaku station is also the starting point for a trip to Meji Jingu, the great imperial shrine in Tokyo. The shrine was completed in 1920 to commemorate emperor Meiji and his wife empress Shōken, whose return to power is marked as the Meiji Restoration. Under his leadership Japan opened towards the outer world and started on a path of rapid industrialisation and modernisation.


You enter the shrine through a huge torii. The shrine is a favourite spot for traditional Japanese weddings. So, head over there in the weekend to catch a glimpse of a Japanese bride and groom. The shrine lies in a big forest with trees donated by the Japanese people. If you’re still up for more parks, head over to the next-door Yoyogi Park. On Sunday, it’s the always busy with groups of people engaging in their different hobbies like martial arts, cosplay and Japanese rock.

Mori Art Museum

Tokyo-by-night
Tokyo by night

For the perfect panoramic view of Tokyo and some great contemporary art, head over to the Mori Art Museum. This art museum has a collection of contemporary art from Japan and Asia. It also hosts many exhibitions of other contemporary art. The museum has long opening hours, it’s open until 22h every day except Tuesdays, so it’s also ideal as an evening activity. When you arrive at the building where the museum is housed, you’re greeted by a huge spider created by Louise Bourgeois.

Tokyo City View

Via the top floor of the building you can gain access to the outdoor panorama deck of Tokyo City View. Here you have the best unhindered views of Tokyo since you’re not behind glass.

More articles about Tokyo

5 days in Tokyo
Monkeys

Nikko | 5 days in Tokyo part 4

Nikko is a bit further afield from Tokyo than Kamakura, so it’s best to get an early start to make the most of your time there and beat the crowds. It takes between two and two and a half hours by train depending on which rail company you use. Those of you travelling with a JR rail pass can take the longer journey for free, so a decision has to be made between saving time or money.

Shinkyo bridge


From the stations, it’s a twenty-minute walk to the first interesting sights. When you want to skip the walking through Nikko’s modern part, take the bus but be sure to get off at the Shinkyo bridge. The beautiful bridge dates back to 1636 and provides an excellent photo opportunity, especially in autumn when the surrounding hills take on the wide range of autumn colours. A legend tells us that the bridge was made by the prayers of a priest named Shōdō. When he wanted to pray, but could not cross the river, a god appeared with two snakes that transformed into a bridge. That is why this bridge is also called Yamasugeno-jabashi, which means the “Snake Bridge of Sedge”.

Rinnoji

Shinkyo bridge is opposite the entrance to Nikko’s shrines and temple complexes. When you go up the hill, the first temple you come upon is Rinnoji. This Buddhist temple complex is huge. Rinnoji dates back to the 8th century and is the most important temple in Nikko. The main hall was recently renovated and is in once again in perfect condition.

Toshogu shrine

Toshogu
Toshogu


The whole area is covered with enormous ancient pine trees. Some of them may already have been there when Iemitsu Tokugawa decided to enlarge and embellish the shrine in honour of his grandfather, Tokugawa Ieyasu. Who was the founder of the Tokugawa shogunate, which ruled Japan from 1600 until the Meiji restoration in 1868. This period is known as the Edo period since the seat of power moved from Kyoto to Edo (Tokyo), where it remains until this day.

The shrine was used to solidify the shogunate and project its power and wealth. It clearly succeeded in this task as it is one of the most beautiful shrines in Japan. The attention to detail and the lavish decoration is of a level rarely seen in Japan. Pay extra attention to the wood carvings and the famous “see no evil, speak no evil and hear no evil” monkeys.

Futarasan shrine

Walkway


As you exit Toshogu shrine and go right a lane lined with trees and stone lanterns lead the way towards Futarasan Jinja. This shrine is dedicated to the deities of Nikko’s mountains and was founded in 782 by Shodo Shonin who also founded Rinnoji and the Shinkyo bridge.

Taiyuinbyo

At the far end of the shrine and temple complex lies Taiyuinbyo, the mausoleum to Iemitsu Tokugawa. Officially this shrine is part of the Rinnoji temple complex and therefor technically a temple instead of a shrine.

Taiyuinbyo is a bit more restrained than Toshogu. Mainly because Iemitsu embellished Ieyasu’s shrine to make a political point, so it wouldn’t make sense to outdo himself with his own shrine. But it still is a beautiful shrine which is definitely worth the effort to visit. Some would even argue that this is the more beautiful and more Japanese shrine because it’s more restrained.

This concludes our day in Nikko. If you have the time, pay a visit to the beautiful Kegon waterfall which is nearby. Otherwise return to Tokyo by train. Read our other articles about Tokyo for more inspiration!

Day trip to Nikko
Shinkansen

11 tips for travelling in Japan

We compiled a list of eleven tips and tricks that can make your stay in Japan easier, more efficient, cheaper and special! We even threw in some bonus tips. Let us know your tips in the comments down below!

Tip one

If, like us, you are planning to see a lot of Japan, make sure you order the Japan Rail Pass in advance. There are several rules conditions of use and requirements for eligibility, so check the official site for more information.

Although now, the Rail Pass can be bought as part of a trial in Japan, it really pays off to order it in advance since that is much cheaper. Prices differ following exchange rate differences and between companies. So, it pays to shop around. We used Japan Experience and were really satisfied with their service.

Tip two

This tip mainly concerns those of you going to use the train and public transport. To plan your journey, use the website and or app HyperDia. They have the latest timetables for all the trains in Japan, both for the different Japan Railways (JR) companies and all the private companies operating in Japan.

The app can do a Japan Rail Pass search, providing you with all the options which are free with your Japan rail pass. To enable this option you must pay €2.99, the app and website themselves are free to use.

Tip three

Train view
Japanese Alps

Another railway tip. When travelling by train, make sure you reserve a (window) seat before departure. You can do this at the station, until five minutes for departure, but also in advance for the rest of your trip, if you already know which train you plan to take. Making a reservation is not mandatory, but it ensures your seat on the train, as the trains can be quite full.

Bonus Tip Look for the Limited Express (WIDE VIEW) trains for even better views. They are for example available in the Japanese Alps between Nagano and Matsumoto and between Toyama and Nagoya.

Tip four

If you do not want to feel lost in Kanji-translation during your whole trip, we have some tips for translation help. Technology is advancing at a rapid pace and one area where a lot of advances have been made in, is machine translation. Translate apps can scan menu’s and signs and even translate speech back and forth. Although the universal translator still is a few years away, these free apps come pretty close.

Microsoft translator

Google translate

Tip five

Roaming costs may be a thing of the past inside the EU, but roaming can still carry quite a hefty price elsewhere. There are two solutions for this problem, our preferred solution is using a pocket Wi-Fi. The alternative is buying a Japanese SIM card for your phone. The advantage of the SIM card is the price, they are a lot cheaper than a pocket Wi-Fi. But the pocket Wi-Fi has the advantage that you can connect several different devices to it at once and so spare the battery life of your phone. The disadvantage of the SIM in your phone is that at the moment it’s not easy to tether and have a VPN running at the same time. If you’re a bit privacy minded this might be a disadvantage for you.

You can order a pocket Wi-Fi in advance and have it mailed to the airport where you arrive or the hotel you’ll be staying at. If you want to get the best of both worlds, then buy a pocket Wi-Fi device for yourselves and use a pre-paid SIM card of the country that you are travelling to.

Tip six

This tip concerns booking the best places to stay. We just loved to alternate between staying in hotels and staying in an Airbnb to experience best of both worlds: the luxury of hotels and the insights that Airbnb apartments can give in the Japanese lifestyle. There is not much price difference between either option in Japan. The main tip wherever you want to stay, is to arrange your stays as early as possible to secure the best stay on the best location for the best price. Don’t think in days or weeks, think in months in advance. Especially for stays in popular cities like Tokyo and Kyoto, or popular/special places like Beppu and Koyasan. The same is also valid when you want to stay in a Ryokan or sleep in a temple.

However, be aware when using Airbnb, and this happens quite a lot: if the host says they offer only half a bathroom, it really is just half a bathroom, without a shower.

Tip seven

Osaka
Osaka Nightlife

Arrange to stay in Osaka if you are planning to visit Kyoto. Osaka is just a short 15-minute train ride away, but the restaurants and nightlife are just something else and won’t bore you. Trust us, you won’t be disappointed.

Tip eight

We can’t give tips about Japan without giving some advice on where to go. And while tastes and interests differ, here are some of our favourite places to visit:

– It takes some time to get there, but we cannot think of much that beats our stay in a temple in Koyasan, joining the morning prayer with the monks and strolling around in the mystic mountains.
– Cycling on the modern art island Naoshima was a very welcome change from all the temples and pagoda’s that we saw right before and after our stay there.
– When in Tokyo, a must visit is the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building, where you can have a free panoramic view from the top floor. Another insiders tip is the boat ride from Hama-rikyu garden to Asakusa. Read our Tokyo itinerary for more tips.

Tip nine

Japanese Alps
Murudo

If you are going to travel on the Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route, read our article about the Alpine Route to see what you can expect. Then our tip: buy the ticket in advance at certain JR rail stations. This gives you a reduction of 25% and will save you 3.090 yen per ticket. See this website for more information on where and how to buy these relatively cheap tickets.

Tip ten

Get your breakfast at the convenience store (7-Eleven, Lawson, etc). This way you can eat on the way to your first activity of the day and save some money at the same time. You can even choose to do this when you are staying in a hotel, as excluding the breakfast option will save you more money than a convenience store breakfast will cost. And while you’re at it get some bento boxes for lunch.

Bonus tip 7-Eleven is the best place for finding ATM’s that work with European bank cards.

Tip eleven

Get up early, so you arrive at the main highlights before the tourist busses do. Especially when you are planning to visit great sites as the Golden Pavilion in Kyoto. You don’t want all your photos ruined by crazy tourist groups, do you? An added bonus depending on the season is the beautiful and photogenic qualities of morning light.

11 tips to improve your stay in Japan
Imperial Shrine of Yasukuni

Five days in Tokyo | War, art, tech and anime

This day in Tokyo brings us to Yasukuni shrine, Yūshūkan war museum, the National Museum of Modern Art Tokyo, Mitsui Memorial Museum and Akihabara neighbourhood. As many of the sites for this day are indoors, this itinerary is ideal for rainy or particular hot days. The second world war and its aftermath in Japan is main theme of the day. From the controversial Yasukuni shrine and its adjecent war museum to Akihabara which started out as an illegal market in post-war Japan.

Imperial Shrine of Yasukuni

We start the day at the most controversial shrine of Japan, the Imperial Shrine of Yasukuni. This shrine commemorates those who died in the service of the Empire of Japan during wars from 1867–1951. Among the enshrined are various convicted war criminals. It gives an interesting insight into the way Japan copes with its history as an aggressor during the 20th century.

Yūshūkan

Kamikaze
Kamikaze plane


The war museum Yūshūkan is located next to the Imperial Shrine of Yasukuni. This museum adds to the controversy of the place because it is seen by many to give an apologetic and revisionist vision of the events leading up to the second world war and the war itself. It’s good to get your own preconceptions challenged and travelling is an ideal way to do this. As an historian with a particular interest in the time period it provided me with views I had not encountered before.

MOMAT

MOMAT
MOMAT


From the war museum, it’s a short and pleasant walk through the Kitanomaru park to our next stop. In the park are several museums and the impressive Budokan, home of the Japanese martial arts. When there are no concerts or events you can freely watch some trainings or tournaments there. At the end of the park lies the National Museum of Modern Art, Tokyo (MOMAT). This is a great museum for discovering Japanese modern art. Especially interesting are the artistic responses to the second world war from several Japanese artists.

Imperial Palace

From the museum, you can partly overlook the Imperial Gardens and the Imperial Palace. The Palace is off limits but the East Gardens can be visited, there are limited places available, you can book ahead online or call the imperial household to see if they have places available that day.

Akihabara

Akihabara
Akihabara


Akihabara is the main area to go to for shopping electronics and experience ‘otaku’ culture. Whether it’s maid cafes, anime shops or video game parlours. Lights are flashing, billboards are shining bright and trucks with huge displays are driving around promoting shows or new music albums. If you’re hypersensitive to noise or light, then this isn’t a place for you.

If you are looking for any manga, anime, sci-fi or fantasy related materials, head over to Radio Kaikan for seven floors of separate shops. Here you can buy figurines, cards, dvd’s, posters and everything else.

For one of the biggest electronics shop in the world go to Yodobashi Akiba. Here you’ll find the widest selection of electronica available spread out over nine floors. Head over to the massage chair section to get a free full body massage and be reenergized for some more shopping.

If you’re looking for cheap souvenirs or something random go to Don Quijote. Here you can buy almost everything from food to X-rated costumes.

Mitsui Memorial Museum

nihonbashi
Nihonbashi


When you’re done shopping head over to the Mitsui Memorial Museum. This private museum of the Mitsui group houses great Japanese and Asian art. One of the highlights of the museum is a detailed reconstruction of the interior of the Joan tea ceremony room. The museum has continuously changing exhibitions on national treasures from different shrines, temples and other Japanese cultural heritage sites, highlighting different Japanese cultural and historical periods.

Next to the museum is Tokyo’s oldest and most prestigious department store, Mitsukoshi. Go there for some high fashion shopping and the excellent food delicacies available in the basement.

Heading down the road towards the water you reach Nihombashi, this is the centre of Tokyo and the place from where all distances in Japan are calculated. Sadly the iconic red-lacquered bridge was already replaced by a stone one at the beginning of the 20th Century. Nowadays this bridge is overlapped by several sections of highways making it far less photogenic than in the past.

More articles about Tokyo

5 days in Tokyo
Okinawa beach

Okinawa – Stranded on a tropical island

We had it all planned out, ending our month-long tour of Japan with some well-deserved days off on the tropical island of Iriomote. Then our phone rang: Booking.com told us that our tropical bungalow had just cancelled because of on incoming tropical Cyclone. At the airport, this sad news was confirmed as our connecting flight was cancelled.

So, there we were, no JR rail pass left, a flight back to Tokyo in three days’ time from Naha, the capital of Okinawa and an incoming tropical cyclone. Our preferred way of travelling is to be always on the move so we board our plane to Naha and start looking for things to do while we’re crossing the East China Sea at 900 km/h.

When we land we’re told that the waves are more than 7 metres high and no ferry will leave the harbour for the next couple of days. With the sea and island hopping off limits, we focus our attention to Okinawa. Stupidly we forgot to get an international drivers licence, so we are limited to public transport to go to places. As the dark clouds were racing above our heads, we were trying hard to find a little ray of sunshine.

First day | history

On our first day of exploring, we wanted to learn more about Okinawa’s history and especially the dark episode of the American invasion. This three-month battle destroyed much of the southern part of the island and killed almost 150.000 Japanese civilians, half of the original population of the island.

Shuri castle

Shuri castle
Shuri castle


Among the cultural casualties of this battle was the Shuri castle, the palace of the Ryukyu Kingdom, which served as a Japanese military HQ during the battle and was shelled for 3 days after which it burnt to the ground. In 1992, it was decided to rebuild the complex, so we could explore this great site and learn about the Ryukyu kingdom and Okinawan culture and the bridge it formed between China and Japan from the 15th until the 19th century. As we were drinking our tea and enjoying local sweets in Sasunoma, originally the waiting room for princes, the wind was rattling the screen doors.

After this insight into the local history of the island, it was time to explore the more recent darker history. For this we had to make our way to the southern tip of the island, where we can find the Okinawa Prefectural Peace Memorial Museum and The Cornerstone of Peace. To get here we had to change buses at Itoman bus terminal which was abandoned. But we found a sign with our connecting bus and at the described time a bus driver appeared from nowhere and we continued our trip through a mixture of rural and suburban landscapes.

Okinawa Prefectural Peace Memorial

Peace memorial
Okinawa Prefectural Peace Memorial

Almost two hours after we departed from the palace, we arrived at the peace memorial park. As we checked the time for our next bus we found out that we had only one hour before we had to take the next bus to make it to our last stop before closing time.

As we walked towards the memorial centre we were greeted by solemn rows of memorial granite stelai that make up the Cornerstone of Peace, remembering the more than 240,000 people from both sides who lost their lives during the battle for Okinawa. The monument lies on top of a cliff overlooking the ocean, even though we had almost blue skies, the wind was blowing fiercely and meters high waves were crashing against the cliffs drowning out all other noises. Another part of the site houses the memorial museum which tells the story of the events leading up to the war, the battle itself and the suffering it caused.

Underground Headquarters of the Japanese Imperial Navy

Naval HQ
Naval HQ


Out of time we hastily returned to the bus stop to bring us to the former Underground Headquarters of the Japanese Imperial Navy. Here 5.000 soldiers under the command of Rear Admiral Minoru Ota made their last stand. Many of them committed suicide when the battle was lost. Much of the bunker complex is still intact and it vividly tells the story of the grim battle fought here. On top of the bunker is a viewpoint which gives you a 360 degrees view of Naha and the surrounding area and the sea.

Second day | nature

Although we had a very interesting and educational first day, we were still missing the tropical island feeling. To remedy this, we booked a bus to the Ocean Expo Park, two hours to the north. The first hour was more of the same, sprawling suburban and industrial zones. But then the constant stream of traffic slowed and with it the landscape. The highway was closed in by all kind of trees and we had the occasional ocean view. The final part took us along the coastal road for some nice views of the sea.

Ocean Expo Park

Churaumi Aquarium

The Ocean Expo Park has a couple of different attractions but the main attraction is the Okinawa Churaumi Aquarium. The aquarium houses many different tanks with a broad range of sea creatures from different habitats. The main tank is huge and houses a couple of whale sharks in it, the largest fish in the world. These are magnificent big animals and it’s a unique opportunity to see them up close, although it’s in captivity. Two other tanks worth mentioning are the shark tank, with many different species of sharks and the deep-sea water tank, which replicates the deep sea surrounding Okinawa.

After all this time in the darkness, it was finally time for us to explore Emerald beach. The sand was bounty white, the palm trees fill the background and summer music is playing in the background. This is the feeling we came for and when we dive into the sea, it’s clear to us that it’s not too bad at all to be stranded on a tropical island..

Do you want to get more inspiration for a journey to Japan, read our 4 week itinerary

Okinawa
hachimangu

Kamakura | a day with trees, shrines and temples

To get a break from the big city of Tokyo, a day trip to Kamakura – just an hour away by train – is the ideal destination. In hindsight, we consider this one of the highlights of our journey to Japan as it perfectly summarizes its extensive culture and offers a nice hike in the woods. Are you ready for some temples and Buddha’s? Kamakura is also being called ‘Small Kyoto’ and it surely lives up to this name.

As Kamakura has a lot to offer, we take an early train from Tokyo, right in the middle of the morning peak hour. With our backpacks filled with bento boxes, we head for our train to Kamakura. Only after leaving Yokohama station there are finally enough seats for all passengers. Although Yokohama is a city of more than 3.7 million inhabitants, it feels like we never left the never-ending suburbs of Tokyo. Only after a while the cityscape is finally replaced with a more rural setting. When we get off at Kita-Kamakura station the speed of life seems to have slowed down a couple of gears.

Engaku-ji

Even though it’s September, Kamakura is still lushly green and tropically hot. Luckily the omnipresent trees provide sufficient shade. As we climb the stairs towards Engaku-ji, it’s clear that our bodies have yet to adjust to the climate. The advantage of rising early is made clear again when we reach the entrance of the complex and are admitted as the first visitors of the day. This gives us the opportunity to enjoy the place in silence and contemplation.

Sanmon
Sanmon Engaku-ji

Engaku-ji was built in 1282 in honour of the victims of the two Mongolian invasions some time earlier. It lies beautifully on the slope of a hill surrounded by ancient cedar trees. The first building we pass is the Sanmon, the big entrance gate. The rest of the buildings lay scattered around the hill, housing relics, hidden gardens and ponds. On our way out, we climb some steep stairs to the highest point to look at Ōgane, the biggest bell in Kamakura and a national treasure. The bell is 2.5 meters tall and more than 700 years old. Through the overgrowth, we have a nice view of the surrounding area and the neighbouring temple.

Daibutsu hiking trail

We skip the neighbouring temple and start our hike on the Daibutsu hiking trail to Hase and the giant Buddha statue. The paths are mostly well kept, but it’s still advisable to wear good hiking shoes. The path starts out as a road but quickly turns into an unpaved path going ever steeper upwards and through thick groves of trees and bushes. It’s hard work in the head and humidity, but overcoming this now will hasten our adjustment to the tropical circumstances.

Kuzuharaoka

As we reach the top of the first hill we come upon Kuzuharaoka shrine. Our first Shinto shrine of the day. Pictures explain us how to wash our hands before approaching the shrine and how to pay our proper respects. The turtles swimming in a little pond, a bench and a soda machine make this a good place for our first break to regain our breath.

Zeniarai Benzaiten

Reenergized, we continue our walk, but only for a short time. Because we have already arrived at our next stop. Hidden behind a small long tunnel lies Zeniarai Benzaiten, one of the most charming Shinto shrines. The shrine lies in pit-like area surrounded by natural walls on all sides with a waterfall flowing into a pond. The main attraction is a cave with a little stream inside. This is the shrine of Zeniarai Benzaiten, the money washing goddess of luck and fortune. It is said that all money which is washed in the stream will be doubled. We’re always in need of some extra pocket money, so we put our bills and coins in a basket and wash them copying the ritual from the Japanese.

Sasuke Inari shrine

Satisfied with this turn of our fortune, we leave via the back exit to visit another Shinto shrine. After some steep climbing, we come upon a path of red torii and banners which guide us ever upwards toward Sasuke Inari shrine. This is also the site of the hidden village of Kamakura, from where the predecessors of the Ninjas worked to eliminate the enemies of the Kamakura Shogunate.

Sasuke Inari shrine
Sasuke Inari shrine

Inari is the ‘kami’ of foxes, rice and agriculture. Which is made obvious since we’re surrounded by thousands of little statues of white foxes. Many of them covered in moss. Because this shrine is off the beaten path it retains its reclusive nature and feels in touch with its natural surroundings. We continue into the dark forest and further up the hill on our way to the Daibutsu. As we clear the forest and the hill we have a splendid view of the sea in the distance and know that our destination lies somewhere in-between.

As we say goodbye to the forest, we walk toward the rural town of Hase. Coming from the opposite direction than most tourist, we are harshly reminded of the fact that we’re not alone in wanting to see the Buddha as we come upon the stream of tourist making their way to the entrance.

Kamakura Daibutsu

Daibutsu
Kamakura Daibutsu

As we enter the Kōtoku-in temple complex, we already see the grand Buddha in the distance. Work on the construction of the statue known as Kamakura Daibutsu began in 1252 and has since been repaired many times. It has been hit by Typhoons, earthquakes, fire and tsunami’s, but it still survives. It’s slightly smaller than the Daibutsu in Nara, but it packs more of a visual punch. Mainly because it’s out in the open and visible from all sides. There is no temple building surrounding it since they kept being destroyed and thereby damaging and endangering the statue itself.

Hase-dera

On our way to the train station of Hase, we visit Hase-dera, another temple complex with a big statue. This temple is known for its biggest wooden Kannon statue. Legend tells that it was carved in the original town of Hase near Nara, together with another statue from the same tree. The statue was then pushed into the sea and washed ashore here. After which a temple was built on that site to house the statue. The main building is on a platform overlooking Kamakura and its bay.

Hase-dera
Hase-dera

After our fair share of walking, we took the train from Hase station back to the central station of Kamakura to make our way to Hachimangū from there. Next to the main approach of the temple is Komachi street, lined with shops and eateries, so we took that street instead to enjoy some local ice-cream.

Tsurugaoka Hachimangū

Tsurugaoka Hachimangū is the Miamoto’s clan guardian shrine and dates back to 1063. As we walk in we cross Genpei pond, filled with water lilies. It’s a favourite spot for romantic pictures. The complex also houses the Kamakura Museum of National Treasures which has some altering National treasures from its collection on display.

Kenchō-ji

Zen garden
Kenchō-ji

We take the side exit towards Kenchō-ji, our last temple of the day. Kenchō-ji is the headquarter of the Buddhist Rinzai sect and the oldest Zen training monastery in Japan. There are several nice buildings in the complex. We go into the Hōjō hall and walk the outer balconies on our socks. This brings us to the backend Zen garden, the oldest remaining in Japan. At the far end of the complex lies Hansōbō, a gold guilded shrine. This is a nice place to end this busy temple and shrine tour.

As we walk back towards the station we are joined by hundreds of uniformed Japanese high school students who have also finished their day. Time for us to get back to Tokyo! Read the rest of our series for more tips on what to do in Tokyo.

Kamakura day trip
Naoshima

Modern Art in Japan

Modern art is booming in Japan. It often happened that we were standing in long lines next to the coolest Japanese. As if the hottest boy band was in town. Except we were not waiting to get a selfie with the lead singer. But we were excited to see a painting, sculpture or lighting installation. If you are an art addict like us, you should not miss Tokyo, but Matsumoto, Kanazawa and Naoshima are also a must.

[japanad]

Matsumoto

Yayoi Kusama, one of Japan’s most famous contemporary artists, is not exhibited a lot in Japan. You can find a giant pumpkin on the island of Naoshima and a permanent exhibition in the Matsumoto Museum of Art. Kusama was born in Matsumoto. We also recommend visiting Matsumoto for the famous Crow Castle and its location at the foot of Japanese alps. But Matsumoto is also worth a visit to discover Kusama’s work in the Matsumoto City Museum of Art. It has works starting all the way back from her childhood but also more famous pieces like the Infinity Mirrored Room. This broad scope is a unique experience, as it provides great insight into her world.

Matsumoto City Museum of Art

Matsumoto City Museum of Art

The Kusuma experience starts outside with giant flower sculptures. It continues with polka dot vending machines where even the soda cans are covered in polka dots. Once inside, make sure you do not get lost in all the mirror rooms with polka dots. This is a dazzling experience and can even feel quite scary and or emotional. Her famous dots are just all around you to blow you away. The childhood work gives you a rare insight into her start as an artist and her continuous development. Other works are psychedelic drawings and an Infinity Mirrors Pod which gives you a one-person experience of infinity. Even if contemporary art does not appeal to you, this museum can be very rewarding.

Naoshima

The ferry to Naoshima (Miyanoura) departs from Uno or Takamatsu. Check out the exact time table before you go. The ferry crosses the Inland Sea and takes you along hundreds of small Islands. If you look carefully you will see a big red polka dot pumpkin at the coast of a slightly bigger island. This tells you that you have arrived at the art island Naoshima. We recommend you rent a bicycle to discover the island, there are a few rental shops next to the ferry stop. Although Naoshima is a bit hilly, the island is not too big and there are electrical bikes available to give you extra support if needed. The museums and art pieces are spread out over the island which makes cycling far quicker than public transport. As an added bonus, it also provides a nice experience of both the culture and nature that Naoshima has to offer.

Naoshima-Lee-Ufan
Lee Ufan Museum

Museums

Ando Tadao designed the Chichu Museum in concrete, steel and glass and is a sight on itself. Only three artists are exhibited here: Claude Monet, James Turrell and Walter de Maria. This bold choice for quality over quantity, results in an unforgettable art experience.

Next to the Chichu Museum lies the Lee Ufan Museum, also designed by Tadao. It exhibits the minimalistic work of the Korean artist Lee Ufan.

The biggest museum is the Benesse House, where you can also stay the night, if your budget allows it. You can also visit the art exhibition inside and the sculpture garden outside if you aren’t a guest. The famous yellow pumpkin of Yayoi Kusama is one of the sculptures that is on display here.

On the other side of the island you can find the Art House Project, spread over seven different locations. Minamidera, one of the locations, is built on the former site of a temple. Inside this building – again – a design of Ando Tadao, you can find another art piece of James Turrell.

Kanazawa

Swimming Pool
Swimming Pool by Leonardo Erlich

If you are planning to visit the 21th Century Museum Contemporary Art in Kanazawa during the weekend, then make sure you’re on time. Even before the museum opens her doors, people are queuing their way to the ticket offices. This results in more people than art in the museum. Art is booming in Kanazawa. Inside, you can among others, admire video art of Marijke van Warmerdam and a room designed by James Turrell. But without a doubt the highlight is the Swimming Pool, a mystical illusion created by Leonardo Erlich. You can experience the installation both from outside and inside of the pool.

Tokyo

Tokyo is packed with contemporary art galleries, museums and impressive architecture. We want to highlight three museums: The National Museum of Western Art, the National Museum of Modern Art Tokyo and the Mori Art Museum.

Mori Art Museum

Spider
Spider by Louise Bourgeois

It’s hard to miss the Mori Art Museum because of the giant spider of Louise Bourgeois outside the entrance. Check the exhibition schedule, to see what is on when you are planning to visit the museum. On the roof of the museum is one of the best viewpoint of the city. Contrary to the other viewpoints, this one is out in the open and your views are not obstructed by glass.

National Museum of Western Arts

The National Museum of Western Arts exhibits great pieces of Western art. It has modern Western artists like Picasso, Miró and Pollock. You can see unique pieces here, which are seldom shown outside of Japan. Together with a wide range of old masters, this museum gives a great overview of Western art.

National Museum of Modern Art Tokyo

The National Museum of Modern Art Tokyo (MOMAT) is the foremost museum for modern Japanese art. It also has a broad collection of foreign modern art. This gives the viewer the opportunity to place Japanese modern art in a broader context. Especially interesting is the impact of the second world war on Japanese artists.

Modern Art in Japan